Member Chad
MemberForum Replies Created
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We use plain sliced walnut veneers for the walnut plywood.
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Sure. You could cut the front 2” off the deck you removed and reinstall that front piece in the cabinet, leaving a void behind the face. This would allow the sink to sit 3/4” lower and give you room to add additional custom spacers if needed.
One deck should support well over 300 lbs. I have never heard of a 3/4” plywood shelf buckling from normal load. Additional cleating could be added underneath the lower fixed shelf, but I do not think it would be necessary.
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We have it custom mixed by a local company here in Portland, so it can be a bit tough to get an exact match. That said, a local paint shop should be able to get close.
We sell the Chestnut stain at the link below. This stain is water-based, so it goes on easily, but it is really meant to be sprayed on, as that is how we apply it in our large flat-line finishing process to ensure consistency. Clearcoat is then applied over the top.
Sherwin-Williams Gallery clear in a 20 sheen is an almost exact match to what we use. We use their industrial line, called AkromaPro, but the underlying formula is almost identical.
You can wipe the stain on, but certain woods may get blotchy, especially alder and maple, so be careful with those species.
https://www.barkerdoor.com/Chestnut-wood-stain-medium-stain-water-based-p/chestnutstain.htm
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Yeah, we saw more of these issues back in the early 2000s with the Shaw Original sinks that were all handmade in England. They were pretty bad back then, and I believe they are still around, as I saw one not too long ago.
Rather than replacing the sink, it may be simpler to remove the top fixed shelf, cut off and discard the rear portion, and then reinstall just the front face of that fixed shelf back into the opening so it looks correct from the front. Once that face piece is back in place, you can add solid wood shims as needed behind it to get the sink to the correct height.
I ran into a similar situation once when an appliance changed after the cabinets were built. In that case, it was a coffee maker. I used an oscillating multi-tool and cut through the confirmat screws because I knew their exact locations from the CAD drawings. Then I pulled the shelf out of the already assembled cabinet, cut the face off the shelf, reinstalled the face piece, and had the space I needed behind it for shimming. It took about 20 minutes, but it did require some on-site cutting.
The other option would be to use an angle grinder and carefully trim the legs on the underside of the sink, or cut larger holes in the shelf where the sink legs sit. Those options are a bit more dodgy, to be honest, so I would lean toward modifying the fixed shelf if possible.
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The top drawer front will stay locked in at 5 7/8″ tall. Only the lower front will increase in height proportionally.
This is true as long as you leave the Drawer Front Heights option set to the default setting.
If you select Equal Height Fronts, then the fronts will stay equal in height and will all increase proportionally as the cabinet height gets taller.
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We would not be able to modify the top drawer box off the inside wall of the cabinet case on one side. This would cause massive issues with our cabinet layout program, resulting in errors.
Straddling the cooktop into the adjacent cabinets is fine, but the top drawer box in the cabinet to the left or right will almost certainly have issues if the cooktop is intruding into the top of the cabinet in that area, as you noted.
You are welcome to order the cabinet as needed, without the drawer box modification, install everything as planned, and then order a new custom drawer box in the correct size over on BarkerDoor.com.
This turns a fairly complex issue into just a couple of new drawer boxes and one follow-up order. Once broken down into those steps, it is fairly easy. You would be able to reuse the existing drawer front and slides. All that would be needed is a new drawer box that is slightly narrower than the original.
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Yeah, for the kitchen upper cabinets, I would go with exposed shelves up top and then match the stain as closely as possible.
We would not be able to match the existing stain on our end, so you would likely want to handle that locally. The best option would be to take one of the older doors to a local paint or stain shop and have them match the color directly from the sample.
The material in the photos looks like red oak to me. We do sell new red oak wall cabinets with exposed interior construction, so the cabinet interiors would be raw red oak and could be stained on site.
https://www.citycabinets.com/Exposed-Interior-Kitchen-Cabinets-s/95.htm
For the under-stairs area, this is a bit trickier because you are getting into some very shallow-depth cabinetry. What you currently have looks like it works fairly well and looks good. Adding shallow-depth cabinets in that area could make it look worse unless it is done with a high level of finish carpentry so the new cabinet work blends cleanly into the existing casework.
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Correct. We sell the doors by themselves over on BarkerDoor.com.
That would need to be a separate order, as specifying individual cabinet doors is a bit more technical than when the door is included with the cabinet case. You will have a few more options to select from.
That said, the doors sold on BarkerDoor.com are the exact same doors used on our cabinets.
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I don’t have the cabinet pulled up in CAD right now, and we offer two separate tray wall cabinet versions, so this really depends on which one is being used.
You should have about 3″ of space between each tray divider partition. That is pretty tight, so if you cannot access the back by hand, a longer drill extension may be the best option to make it work.
Personally, I have only installed the version where the trays stop about halfway up inside the cabinet, so unfortunately I have not installed this exact version on site.
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Yeah, we can remake the front pretty easily. The charge would be negligible, and we usually handle small items like this as goodwill gestures, as long as the customer is being reasonable.
If it is a larger order and the customer is not being overly nit-picky, remaking a single door is usually not a big issue in the grand scheme of things. Email customer service for assistance.
We do not sell a touch-up kit because the paint we use cannot, or at least should not, be applied by hand brushing or roller. It really needs to be sprayed to achieve the best-quality or at least passable final product.
The actual Pure White paint formula is attached.
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1. Sure, you can use push-to-open hardware to make the cabinet doors above your refrigerator into a hidden door area. You can buy this type of hardware from various vendors, and there are a few different installation options.
I prefer the surface-mount piston style, so you are not stuck trying to drill deep holes into the face of your cabinet case. I took a quick look through the current brochure and grabbed a screenshot that I will attach.
2. We would use a tall finished end panel ordered at full height to create the transition from the granite countertop to the refrigerator enclosure area. An example would be the previous picture I posted in one of my earlier replies.
4. It sounds like you are adding a row of cabinets to tie the existing cabinets to the ceiling. This is a common route when adding to a residential stock kitchen from a large builder that uses standardized kitchen packages and does not allow customization. Bringing those cabinets to the ceiling is going to make the kitchen look more grand.
Honestly, it sounds like you have face-frame-style cabinets on site. I would personally go to Home Depot and buy the parts needed to mimic the exact same face frame widths as the cabinets below. Trying to mix one of our frameless cabinets with face-frame-style cabinets on site is not going to look correct. At the very least, I would be able to tell they were pieced together with mismatched construction methods once viewing the completed project.
Build the face frames and box, then order doors from BarkerDoor.com to integrate them into the overall kitchen. This will look better, but it requires much more work and may even cost more by the time it is finished. That is the reason custom refacing is really an art of its own.
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Personally, I would hold the fillers at 30.50″ so you have toe kick space underneath the filler. This allows you to block out the void space using a 2×4, as you mentioned, and then use a toe skin to cover the corner area.
The alternative is to use a full-height filler at 34.50″ tall, which breaks up the toe kick and adds a transition point in the corner. I am not a fan of this approach because the front bottom corner of the filler is then exposed to a lot of abuse when cleaning the floor. That bottom front corner is going to get hit repeatedly over the years and may require constant touch-up or replacement, while also being right there in plain view every time you use the kitchen.
In my opinion, it is better to eliminate that future headache by using a toe skin in the back corner.
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If you are asking about it, then there are probably other current and future customers who will want that cabinet as well 😉
It could be a good addition to expand the available offerings.
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1.5″ would not be available as a modification.
The issue is that, at 1.5″, we are unable to safely run the part through our edge banding equipment. The belt that holds the part is spaced away from the area where the banding is applied. At only 1.5″ wide, the part is barely held by the belt, which means it can shift out of alignment and potentially damage the equipment.
2″ would be our minimum, and even that is pushing the limits.
The best option would be to order it at 2″, then cut it down on site if needed.
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Nice, this is great feedback on stain applications.
We are currently working on some new tint options this month. The issue with stains is that they can be problematic to apply in the field, especially on existing millwork or other on-site items.
We have made some progress with adding pigments directly into the clearcoat finish, which allows us to skip the stain application step before the clearcoat is applied. This helps tone down the natural grain and color variation of the wood, making it possible to either lighten or darken the material in a much more consistent way. The underlying grain and color tone become less dominant in the final look.
Most recently, we tested what we are calling a Weathered finish. This is a clearcoat with a small amount of Italian-made titanium dioxide added as pigment. The effect is that it softly washes out the color of the material while still allowing some of the wood grain to show through, almost like a subtle mask. It is very promising.
For the Tamarack color, we tested what we will internally call a Smoked finish. The Smoked finish is great because it creates a very tasteful, minimal layer that slightly darkens the material to mimic Tamarack, but without adding red tones.
I will post pictures of the tests so we can all review. Note that this is in testing only, we may not add these to the website, just testing for fun 😉
