Member Chad
MemberForum Replies Created
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The easiest way to get the interior dimensions on a blind corner cabinet would be to post the size of the cabinet you are planning to order. Then we can simply show you the interior dimensions in CAD.
See the attached image for an example of a 48″ wide blind corner base.
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The side, top, and bottom will all have exposed areas that need to be covered with a finished end panel, finished top, or under-cabinet skin.
A finished end panel can be used for all of these areas if you want. It is essentially the same product as a finished top or finished under-cabinet skin.
The sides of that exposed cabinet will have construction holes showing, just like the wall cabinet placed on top. So yes, you will need a couple of finished end panels for the left and right sides, and a couple of finished ends for the top and bottom.
Finished ends are usually ordered 5/8″ proud of the cabinet cases. This allows the edges of the cabinet doors to be covered slightly, creating a clean stepped-back, flush appearance.
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We did not add this one to the City line because the plumbing was too tight for most past customers who attempted to install that cabinet.
The interior height is just slightly too small to work well with the deeper, more modern sink basins commonly used in today’s cabinet installations.
I can certainly add this cabinet if you are serious about ordering it. Just let me know. Otherwise, I would recommend using a rollout at the bottom of a regular two-door sink cabinet.
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Sure, we had another customer ask about this on the City Cabinets line a while back.
I will attach the image I generated that explains the process of adding an exposed cabinet to act as a substitute for a finished end panel on a tall cabinet or refrigerator opening.
Same idea here. This can be done using a cabinet that is already listed on the site, but rotated 90 degrees.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Kitchen-Glass-Door-and-Open-Tall-Cabinets-s/251.htm
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This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by
Chad.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by
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12″ is about standard for the depth of the rail.
Personally, I would make it full depth if I had the budget. That is mainly because my eye level is near the top of the refrigerator, around 72″, so I am looking straight into the void above the refrigerator. Having it full depth prevents me from seeing the exposed underside of the cabinet above, since I can literally see all the way back into the opening and to the wall.
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Any time the cabinets touch a wall, you should use a 2″ wide filler between the wall and the cabinet. This allows for a proper transition and gives you room to scribe the filler to the wall if needed.
See here for more details:
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Kitchen-Base-Cabinet-Fillers-s/92.htm -
What does the area look like to the left of the oven? Is there a window there? This is a tight area, but custom-sized cabinets will help you gain back as much storage space as possible.
There are not a ton of options here, but:
You could move the dishwasher to the right side of the sink, then install a three-drawer base where the dishwasher was originally. This would give you better access to pots and pan storage. The dishwasher should be a fairly simple switch since the drain and wall outlet are likely already in the sink opening anyway.
I don’t see any practical way to move the oven forward. It would likely create a void space behind the oven that would cause more issues than it solves, and it would reduce the usable square footage in this already tight space. Having the range step back is fine and works well, in my opinion.
Personally, I would keep the microwave hood. A new hood vent would help with ventilation, but then you would need to install the removed microwave somewhere else, likely on top of a countertop, which would reduce already valuable counter space.
Another option would be to go with an 18″ wide dishwasher and gain back some space for cabinets and storage. That, or delete the dishwasher altogether, but this is America and we love our dishwashers. Myself included.
I was just in Manhattan last weekend. Love NYC!
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Expect a normal lead time for this sized order. So about 5-7 weeks for raw cabinets.
https://www.citycabinets.com/Lead-Time-s/37.htm -
Pullouts and drawer boxes are exactly the same. They are assembled and finished the same way, and even the drawer slides are the same.
Blum Movento drawer slides are now used on CityCabinets.com products as well as BarkerCabinets.com products.
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The false front is 5 7/8″ tall. The rails are 3″ wide, but your countertop installer can, and almost always does, cut into those cross rails to make room for the sink.
This is common and expected. The cross rails are only there to keep the cabinet square until the countertop is installed. Once the countertop is in place, the rails can be cut into as much as needed because they do not provide vertical support. The countertop will provide more than enough horizontal support once installed.
You can certainly miter-cut those corners if you want and if you have the ability to make a clean cut on site. That said, this can be risky. I personally would not trust most on-site table saws for this type of cut, as they can be a bit shaky and are known to produce less-than-perfect results. It also creates a more damage-sensitive corner, since you now have two very sharp edges meeting in what could be a high-traffic area. As long as you cover the base area with solid wood base molding, you should be good to go.
Unusual delivery charges to hard-to-access areas are rare, but those are costs we cannot cover. In the past, we have shipped pallets to islands and other unusual delivery locations within U.S. territories, where customers tried to use the free shipping policy to cover extremely expensive specialty delivery. Basically, they wanted us to hire someone with a boat to deliver the pallets directly to their door.
We have to set reasonable limits. In the past, some of these requests have even resulted in threats of negative reviews for “poor customer service,” even though the delivery request itself was unusual and outside the scope of standard freight service.
That is why our terms explain that odd or specialty charges are not covered. For example, in areas like Manhattan, local rules may require special crews, street coordination, traffic control, or specialized delivery trucks just to unload pallets. Those types of extraordinary costs are simply not something we can absorb under a free shipping policy.
In those situations, the customer can usually ship to an alternate address and then move the individual cabinets in smaller groups to the final destination. We rarely see this issue today because our freight carriers, FedEx Freight and R+L Freight, are very good at handling deliveries. However, the terms need to remain in place just in case an unusual delivery situation comes up.
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Unlike face frame cabinets, the crown molding will not rest on or attach to the top rail, since our cabinets do not have a top rail.
The crown molding attaches to an L-shaped backer. This backer is separate from both the cabinet and the crown molding. It allows you to pull the crown forward slightly and gives the scribe molding a clean place to terminate.
We recommend pulling the backer forward by about 1/4″ to 3/8″ to create the separation needed for the transition to look correct.
See below for pictures showing the backer and crown molding as separate pieces attached to the top of the cabinet case. This setup does not interfere with the cabinet doors at all.
https://www.citycabinets.com/Crown-Packages-s/206.htm
Note we have a recommended ceiling height to crown package height for easy reference as well.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by
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This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by
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Please email customer service at info@citycabinets.com for any issues.
I checked this job file and found the issue. It looks like a fix we made back in April to correct intermittent unaligned dadoes caused an alignment issue in our cabinet layout program. As a result, the dado missed its mark and was never slated to be performed.
I have corrected this in your job file, and we will remake the single right side of that cabinet as needed.
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So basically, if you order paint using that picture, the paint should, in theory, be the exact same color we are spraying 🙂
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The picture you posted is from the info bubble on each cabinet. This shows the exact paint mixture we use to spray our Dover color. This is not a match to a standard Sherwin-Williams Dover White color chip as ours is just a slight bit different. Please see below for more information on why this is the case:
Please note that all of our painted finishes are not color matched to current Sherwin-Williams color codes. They are custom matched to older samples from more than 20 years ago, when we were spraying conversion varnish-based paints and stains.
For consistency, we have maintained the exact same color formulas from that time. Because the conversion varnish products were not supplied by Sherwin-Williams, the resulting colors differ slightly from standard Sherwin-Williams colors. At the time, the factory matched directly to physical color chips, and we continue to use those exact matches from the early 2000s.
Below are the current formulas we use for each of our paints. We strongly recommend ordering a sample to view the color under your actual project lighting conditions. For best results, color matching should be done using an actual door from your final order to avoid slight variations between batches mixed at different times and spraying processes. This also helps prevent discrepancies caused by aging, sample wear, or handling. Matching at your local Sherwin-Williams store is quick, so it is best to do this at the final stage to avoid issues during installation.
