Member Chad
MemberForum Replies Created
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1.5″ would not be available as a modification.
The issue is that, at 1.5″, we are unable to safely run the part through our edge banding equipment. The belt that holds the part is spaced away from the area where the banding is applied. At only 1.5″ wide, the part is barely held by the belt, which means it can shift out of alignment and potentially damage the equipment.
2″ would be our minimum, and even that is pushing the limits.
The best option would be to order it at 2″, then cut it down on site if needed.
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I will need to add that option to the site.
In the meantime, you can simply order the regular Wall 90 cabinet and request that the bottom be recessed by 3/4″ in the order notes. That is a pretty easy change.
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Looks like it may be a glue issue under the veneer where the substrate and veneer are glued together. Is it wavy to the touch, almost like the veneer is sitting on an uneven substrate?
Sanding would not cause an issue like this. unless its from the mill like this, especially if this is a slab plywood cabinet door or finished end panel, since the veneer is very thin.
What material was selected for the door wood type? If this is paint grade, it would be treated differently than a premium select material intended for stained or clear-coated doors.
Do you have an order number I can look up?
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It is going to depend on the wood type you are using.
Harder wood species like red oak, walnut, and similar woods are going to feel different than alder or cherry. Maple will usually feel the smoothest and most pristine because it has the least porous face.
All of our doors go through a massive multi-stage sanding process with wide belt sanding and orbital sanding to bring the door to its final thickness. Even our outside-edge detail machine sands the profiles during the same pass that applies the door’s edge detail. They are then hand-sanded and detailed by a real person.
Regardless, you are going to be sanding between each coat of finish you apply to the doors anyway, so minor differences in surface feel between wood species should not be an issue.
It is literally impossible for our doors to arrive unsanded.
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Should not look odd. Personally, I prefer the top drawer fronts as a solid wood slab, with the lower fronts in a panelized configuration. This is the traditional way of doing it.
That said, I do think panelized top drawer fronts can look good, and there is certainly a place for them. The top drawer fronts are the ones that get used all the time, usually much more than the lower fronts, so they are going to see more wear and tear.
The solid wood slab option keeps the area behind and under the handle flat, without the small recessed pocket that can make accessing the handle a bit more cumbersome. The panel itself can also be a weak point, since wet hands may regularly get water into that recessed panel area.
I am probably overanalyzing it, but that is my opinion, lol.
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Sure, see below:
1. No, each cabinet will have built-in reveals that ensure the doors do not rub on each other. See attached images. Basically, you can stack them on top of each other as needed. You can also adjust the final hinge placement as needed to equalize the gaps.
2., No issue there. The cabinets are made from 3/4″ thick plywood and can hold far more weight than anything you could reasonably add to the interior of that cabinet. There is no risk of compression.
3. If you are stacking wall cabinets on top of base cabinets, you will want to attach the wall cabinet to the base cabinet near the front to keep them flush at the face. For 25″ deep cabinets, you should attach the cabinet to the rear wall studs, then use shims at the floor where the cabinet touches the flooring. Since 25″ is pretty far away from the back wall, the shims at the floor will help keep the cabinet stationary and prevent the screws from pulling out of the studs.
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Note that only the rail width changes on the drawer front as the drawer front gets smaller than 7″ tall.
The stiles will remain at the standard 2 5/8″ since they do not need to be decreased for any reason. This maintains the correct look.
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While we are on the subject, say you have a door that is super narrow.
See this image to see exactly what happens to the stiles and rails as we strategically adjust them to preserve panel space and make the door look correct.
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No, we only shrink the rails on shorter drawer fronts to keep enough space for your handles/knobs.
See this image for a guide on how the drawer fronts will change based on the front’s actual height:
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I will need to add that one to make it correct.
Assuming you want no cabinet bottom/deck, then yes, I will need to make a separate product, as the doors need a COUNTERTOPDROP reveal of 1/4″ from the bottom of the doors to the top of the countertop.
This is a bit larger than our standard 1/8″ gap and will ensure the doors do not rub the countertop.
I will add this next week.
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Sure, just request that the B1D be made without drilling the hinge cups in the order notes at checkout. This is fine and an easy change.
If you have a lot of single-door cabinets, please add this one odd B1D cabinet to the end of the order so it is by itself as a quantity of one.
It is much easier to change a single line item with a quantity of one than it is to break apart a quantity of two cabinets into two separate line items. That creates a mess on our end, but keeping the non-hinged cabinet as its own line item makes it easy.
Thanks!
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Yeah, these forums are about a year old or so.
We had an older forum site that was based on the Joomla architecture, but it fell into disrepair and needed to be gutted and rebuilt, so here we are.
No issue at all with asking the same question. These forums are a way for us to connect directly with the end customer from the front-end management side. This allows us to keep our finger on the pulse and build the website and product offering around what people actually want, not just what is profitable or easy.
So far, we have launched multiple items that have made the line more appealing to the end customer, and we plan to continue this approach indefinitely.
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a. The minimum width will not transfer over to the base cabinets, as those are ordered at much larger depths nearing 24″ in most cases. The issue is that the bottom is held by a CNC clamp at the banding, so the front edge is facing the ground in the CNC machine. The dado is on the back of the part, so that is about as far away from the clamp as possible.
When the dado is slotted, it is about 5 mm deep on each pass, and this applies pressure to the clamp that is trying to hold it near the bottom. So the machine is slotting on the top, roughly 24″ away from the clamp position where the part is being held. This becomes an issue because the leverage the dado blade puts on the clamp is more than the clamp can take, which shifts the part to the side and jams the saw blade into a full stop position.
This breaks the breakaway bearing for safety reasons and puts the CNC down for an extended period of time until we can have a tech come out and replace that bearing. Long story short, the wall cabinets are only about 12″ deep, so that is not an issue. Base cabinets are a bit more difficult.
Note that back in February, we had a few customers chime in complaining about a sloppy dado near the edge of the part. This is the exact same thing happening here. For that issue, the City line was more affected, as the plywood is more dense and tends to shift more because it is harder to saw through. Regardless, the issue was addressed by making the dado/back less deep into the part, which helped regulate the shifting of the parts and prevented the bearings from being shattered.
b. No, adding a third set of dados would not be something we can offer, as the system can already struggle with adding system holes. I would simply add the holes on site. A bit of work, but not too bad, as they sell jigs and bits that accommodate shelf hole drilling.
c. On Barker Cabinets, we currently do not support changing the door to a glass version directly when ordering on the website. City does allow this as a beta test since we launched recently. If you want a glass door on those cabinets, and understand that the interior will remain the prefinished maple plywood, then you can simply request this as a customization in the order notes at checkout.
d. I will add those to the site eventually. In the meantime, just request that those two blind corner cabinets be made with a “3/4″ bottom scribe.” My guys will know what to do.
e. Use 1.25″ long screws from the inside of the cabinet case to attach those end panels. Do not use glue, as this can cause issues and limit flexibility for future modifications.
For your toe skins, use pin nails, as you may wish to rip those out and replace them in the future. Do not use glue here either.
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Sure, we sell samples at the link below.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Wood-types-and-Finishes-s/122.htmAcquiring and spraying the paint really depends on the equipment and experience you have. Our paint system is only recommended for spray applications and is really designed for a larger production spray line environment.
Usually, we recommend simply taking a paint sample from your actual project, meaning take one of the doors from your new cabinet order and have your local paint supplier match that exact door color and sheen. This helps prevent most issues with color mismatches, and they can formulate the paint in a way that is easier to apply on site using the tools and equipment you have available.
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Fixed. Website has been updated. See here: https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/w1dintegrateducl.htm
