[Chad]

The shopping cart for your order is stored in a cookie in the web browser you used to create it. If you need to order a single sample door, simply use a different browser on the same device, for example, Chrome, Edge, or Firefox.

Keep one browser open for your main order and use another browser for the sample-door order. You can also place the sample door order from your cell phone.

[Chad]

Sure, see below:

1. Yes, leaving a standard 2″ wide filler on each side of your cabinet run is the best option. Fillers are useful because they create a transition between out-of-plumb walls and perfectly plumb, square cabinets. At 2″ wide, they provide enough space that any wall irregularities are much less noticeable and won’t draw the eye.

   This is one of the most overlooked benefits of fillers. They make installation much easier because the cabinets are not installed tightly against the walls. They also allow you to apply scribe molding to the face of the filler so it can conform to uneven walls. This avoids having to scribe the entire filler to the wall and then rely on painted caulk, which often cracks over time.

   Professional installers typically use scribe molding rather than caulk. They will often leave the filler about 1/4″ away from the wall so the cabinet run can slide into place smoothly without damaging the drywall. Once the cabinets are installed, the scribe molding is applied as the final step, and any baseboard or other trim can terminate cleanly into the face of the scribe molding. The result is a cleaner, more professional appearance that is also much easier to install.

2. Correct. The listed cabinet depth is measured from the back of the cabinet box to the face frame. The doors project beyond that measurement. For example, a 24″ deep cabinet with the doors installed is actually about 24-13/16″ deep overall.

   I generally recommend pulling the fillers forward so they are flush with the cabinet doors. You don’t have to, but in my opinion it creates a much cleaner finished look.

   Also, note that scribe molding is 3/4″ wide, not 3/4″ deep. It only projects about 1/4″, so it doesn’t add much thickness.

   I also typically recommend holding the cabinet run back about 2″ from the face of a rounded drywall corner. This leaves plenty of room for the countertop to terminate nicely, since most countertop installers prefer an overhang of approximately 1–2″, depending on their installation preferences.

[Chad]

Sure. See the example below for a common way to lay out an island using exposed shelf cabinets facing both the left and right sides.

Alternatively, you can order all of the cabinets without an integrated toe kick, build a custom-sized platform on-site, level it first, and then simply set the cabinets on top of the platform. This approach can make installation and layout a bit easier, especially on uneven floors.

The example below shows the process using the integrated toe kick, so you can get an idea of how the layout works.

[Chad]

Sure, We actually offer a set of adjustable leveling legs that serve as the cabinet support structure. They also include clips for attaching the toe kick, making the toe kick easily removable so you can access underneath the cabinets for cleaning or maintenance.

https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/xtfoot.htm

Here’s a video from a past project where I used these leveling feet:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laZ0sBfQO9E

Another popular option is to build and level your own support platform (or ladder base) first, then install the cabinets on top of it. This is a simple and effective method because you only have to level the support structure once, rather than shimming each individual cabinet. It also provides excellent support and makes cabinet installation much faster.

barkercabinets.com

Concealed Leveling Foot/Crown Backer- Steel and Plastic (4'' to 5 1/2'') or (5'' to 6 3/4'')

Order custom USA sourced RTA (ready to assemble) kitchen and bath cabinet online. Barker Cabinets offers only the finest Made in USA materials and hardware for all custom RTA cabinets shipped.

[Chad]

Yes, Home Designer should allow you to add our catalog. I don’t believe that version supports automatically downloading manufacturer catalogs or accessing the online catalog library that Chief Architect manages, but that doesn’t really matter since you can download our catalog directly from our website.

It’s been a long time since I’ve looked into the exact differences between Home Designer and the Professional version. In our tutorial videos, we use many of the features available in the Professional version, so some of those specific tools or workflows may not be available in Home Designer.

Overall, though, you should be able to use Home Designer and load our catalog without any issues.

[Chad]

[Chad]

Sure. For the most accurate status update, please email info@citycabinets.com with your order number. We can check the current status of your order and see if there are any issues affecting the production schedule.

The Slim Shaker is a newer door style, and it can be more challenging to machine than our other profiles. As a result, we occasionally experience longer production times due to additional quality control and internal remakes. It’s certainly possible that this is contributing to the delay with your order.

[Chad]

Yes, you can request that the wall cabinet be modified to the exact height you need, down to the nearest 1/16”.

If the new configuration raises the double oven higher, you may want to reduce the height of the single-drawer base cabinet to around 12”. This keeps the oven controls at a more comfortable operating height while still maintaining a balanced appearance. Since the drawer cabinet has a significantly taller drawer front, the difference won’t be as noticeable or visually distracting.

[Chad]

Sure, two things:

1. To answer your question about the height of the single-drawer base cabinet next to a three-drawer base cabinet, the B1DR would need to be exactly 16 5/16″ tall for the lower drawer fronts to line up precisely. You can request this in the order notes at checkout. Simply order the cabinet at the closest available height, then note that you would like the final height changed to 16 5/16″. See pic attached.

2. If the single-drawer base cabinet will be installed at the bottom of a tall appliance stack, I would strongly recommend making it 18″ to 20″ tall. This provides several advantages. It raises the wall oven to a more comfortable and practical working height, making it easier to load and unload. A wall oven installed too low can be cumbersome to use, especially while baking. The taller bottom drawer also provides valuable storage in a very accessible location. It can be used for baking dishes, pots, pans, and other frequently used items. By comparison, cabinets installed above a tall appliance stack are often less useful because they can be difficult to reach.

[Chad]

For handcrafted sinks, we recommend leaving a little extra space so you can caulk the face of the sink to the sides of the cabinets. This provides some flexibility for any minor variations that may occur during the sink’s design and manufacturing process.

This sink appears to be handmade, so I would personally leave a 1/8″ gap on each side as a precaution.

That said, if the sink is mass-produced, such as a standard stainless steel sink, you can typically use the exact dimensions without leaving additional clearance.

[Chad]

A 49″ total width is very wide. That is maxed out for a single door tall pantry cabinet, and the shelves can sag over time, as mentioned before.

If it were me, I would break this up into smaller-width cabinets as much as possible. This usually makes installation much easier, since installing massive cabinets in a small area can be extremely frustrating.

Using smaller-width cabinets, then stacking smaller cabinets on top, may cost a bit more in material, but everything will install faster and be more rigid overall.

This gets more into a closet-style design, where you break things up on a per-cabinet, per-use basis. Each cabinet is smaller in total width, but has a more dedicated purpose for storage.

Yes, 3/4″ plywood is strong, but heavy bags on 49″ wide shelves will almost certainly sag over time unless steps are taken to make the shelves stiffer. Ordering smaller cabinet widths is the safest option.

[Chad]

A two-door base cabinet will include 2 shelves when ordered at the standard 34.5″ height.

https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/b2d.htm

The shelves are full depth. Please see the picture for reference.

All shelves in this cabinet are fully adjustable and use metal shelf pins.

---

Legacy attachments:

• B2D-4T
• how-to-install-adjustable-shelf-into-a-cabinet

[Chad]

This is great info. Thanks!

[Chad]

Yeah, that pricing sounds about right.

Once you start using Home Designer, feel free to post back here with any questions, issues, or limitations you run into. Chief Architect generally encourages users to upgrade to the full Professional version, but if Home Designer can handle 90-95% of what we demonstrate in the introductory videos, then it’s probably the best value for most users designing their own projects.

Here at Barker, we needed the full version of Chief Architect because we were exporting catalogs and integrating them with Chief’s backend systems. I also need to spend some time with the newer versions to see what’s changed over the past few years, it has been a while since I created those introductory videos. I’m sure they’ve added some great new features that are worth exploring.

[Chad]

Thanks! I’m glad you like it.

Yes, we’re making a lot of behind-the-scenes improvements to the forums to make the information clearer and easier to navigate. We have quite a few new features and changes in the works, so stay tuned!

• This reply was modified 6 days, 3 hours ago by  Chad.