Member Chad
MemberForum Replies Created
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Correct, this is a new addition that only City Cabinets currently offers as a standard option wh8en ordering. We can do it manually on the Barker Cabinets line, but it would require ordering the regular W2D cabinet, then requesting that we change the door over to the glass version in the order notes at checkout.
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All W2D cabinets come standard with a prefinished birch plywood interior. The doors and face banding are custom in the wood species and finish you select, so a raw wood or primer-only for the doors and face is the standard option for our regular wall cabinets.
If you want the cabinet interior to match the doors, you will need to order the W2DGLASS cabinet instead. Those cabinets feature an interior that is finished in the same wood species and finish as the doors you select. This is the recommended option if you plan to install clear glass doors, as it prevents the standard birch plywood interior from being visible through the glass after installation.
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Yes, technically there are several ways to finish the cabinet sides, not just the method I posted. I prefer this approach because it keeps the expensive and difficult to replace finished end panel from extending all the way to the floor.
Anything that touches the floor is going to take a beating over time from brooms, vacuums, mops, and general wear and tear. If the bottom of the finished end panel becomes damaged, replacing it can be a major project since it is often trapped beneath the countertop and secured with adhesive. Removing and replacing it without damaging the countertop is generally not a DIY job.
By stopping the finished end panel above the floor and using a base molding instead, any future damage is much easier and less expensive to repair. The base molding can simply be replaced if needed. It also creates a clean transition to the floor and gives you the option of adding shoe molding later to hide any irregular gaps between the flooring and the cabinet. Overall, there are a lot of practical, long term benefits to this method.
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There really isn’t a good or accurate way to order a single tall appliance cabinet and ensure all of the fixed shelves end up in the correct positions. In addition, most appliances require approximately a 3/4″ overlap at both the top and bottom of the opening, which means you would still need doubled-up fixed shelves between the appliance openings.
The simplest, strongest, and safest approach is to order each appliance cabinet as a separate unit and then stack them together during installation. This creates a much more manageable assembly, makes installation easier, and allows individual sections to be replaced or modified in the future without having to rebuild the entire cabinet.
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Sure, we typically install the filler 5/8 inch proud, just like the finished end panels. This usually provides the best appearance.
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For a flush toe kick, you do not want to use toe skin material because it is only 1/4 inch thick and will leave a raw, unfinished top edge.
Instead, use the BASE MOLDING product. It has a finished top edge and is designed specifically for this application.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Base-Molding-s/69.htm
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It sounds like you are trying to skin the underside of the cabinets. You can do this with a finished end panel or use millwork such as the SQUARETRIM molding we sell.
Millwork is usually less expensive and can be miter-cut on site to handle corners. It also leaves more room for the under-cabinet lighting fixtures to tuck up into the recessed area.
You can certainly run the material 5/8 inch proud. This creates a more flush appearance that helps conceal the bottom edges of the cabinet doors while still leaving approximately a 1/8-inch setback from the face of the doors to the face of the under-cabinet light valance or skin.
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Yes, you can request a change to the cabinet height. Order the cabinet at the smallest available height, such as 10 inches, then note at checkout that you would like the height changed to 9.25 inches before production.
We will make the adjustment on the backend before production begins. Just be sure to include the request in the order notes.
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Sure, please see here. The desk spreader cabinet should be exactly 6 1/8 inches tall to accommodate a 5 7/8-inch-tall drawer front, matching the drawer fronts on the surrounding cabinets.
You will need to order the cabinet at 6 inches tall, then request in the order notes at checkout that the height be changed to 6 1/8 inches, since the website does not offer 1/8-inch increments.
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Apologies for the delay. I was out on vacation and just returned yesterday.
Please see the attached images for additional information on the cabinet and opening dimensions.
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This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by
Chad.
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This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by
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Apologies for the delay. I was out of the office on vacation and returned yesterday, so I am just getting caught up.
First, if you are comfortable using the standard 3/4-inch-thick tall end panel, you can order the TFE Oversized panel up to 120 inches tall and use it as a single piece.
Here is the link to the oversized tall end panel:
https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/tfeoversized.htm
Using the thicker 1.5-inch tall end panels will require a seam somewhere on the refrigerator enclosure, so you will need to decide where you want that seam to be. The 1.5-inch panels are thicker and provide a more substantial appearance, but they are limited to 96 inches in height, as shown on the website.
This means the enclosure would need to be assembled from two pieces. When creating a seam like this, I generally prefer to make it look intentional rather than trying to hide it completely. I would still keep it above eye level, but placing the seam higher than the refrigerator opening may look a little unusual because the seam would appear on the front face where the cabinet doors meet the refrigerator opening.
A better option may be to align the seam with the top of the refrigerator opening and continue it around the side so it appears intentional. In this case, I would make the lower tall end panel the distance from the finished floor to the underside of the wall cabinet above the refrigerator opening.
You could then use brackets or a solid-wood cleat attached to the underside of the wall cabinet and screw into the upper portion of the lower tall end panel to secure everything together.
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1. A 49-inch shelf is fairly wide, but the shelves are 3/4-inch-thick plywood and, at a 26-inch depth, they should still be solid and sturdy. I do not have one available to test, but there are several ways to reinforce the shelves if they begin to sag over time.
The City plywood is extremely dense. The shelves would not be at any realistic risk of breaking unless you were storing something exceptionally heavy, but some gradual sagging could still occur.
Here are a few reinforcement options:
First, you could add a support block to the back of the blank panel at the front of the shelf. The blank panel is also made from 3/4-inch plywood, so a removable wood block could provide support exactly where it is needed. The screws would be installed from the inside and near the corners, so this would not affect the appearance of the cabinet face.
Another option is to install a shelf stiffener along the front edge of the 3/4-inch plywood shelf. This is fairly straightforward, although you may need to reduce the shelf depth slightly to allow the stiffener to fit. A web search for “shelf stiffener” will show several available options.
You could also double the shelf thickness. This would require adding extra shelves through a custom order note, so there would be an additional charge. I do not particularly recommend this option, though, because installing doubled shelves can be awkward and makes adjusting the shelf height more difficult.
Lastly, you could simply flip the shelves periodically to help counteract any gradual sagging.
2. Yes, our tall blind cabinets provide full access to the interior. Please see the wireframe image for reference. Chief Architect has some limitations when accurately displaying the internal cabinet construction.
3. A W2D cannot be ordered at 49 inches wide because the cabinet back would exceed 48 inches, which is the maximum width we can cut from the plywood sheets used for the cabinet cases.
You would need to use two separate W1D cabinets installed side by side instead. This would also eliminate the concern about adjustable shelf sag, so it may be the better solution overall.
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Sure, if you plan to paint the cabinet interiors, you can lightly scuff the surface to help the paint adhere better. I recommend using 220-grit sandpaper. An orbital sander is my preferred method, but smaller areas can be done with a sanding block and 220-grit paper.
After sanding, apply at least one coat of primer followed by two coats of paint. This should create a durable, long-lasting finish that can also be touched up or repaired easily in the future.
You can also leave the cabinet interiors as they are, with the clear-coated birch plywood finish. This is the most durable option, and the natural birch grain does a good job of hiding dust, dirt, and minor imperfections.
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Sure, the best option here is to use the standard 4-inch toe kick and keep it flush. The 4-inch height creates the proper built-in look and provides a natural transition from the floor to the cabinet face. Trying to minimize the toe-kick area may actually draw more attention to it.
I would not order these base cabinets with the “No Toe Kick” option. That would place the bottom drawer front very close to the floor, leaving little room for operation and potentially causing rubbing or other issues.
Our standard 4-inch toe kick cannot be reduced to something like 1 inch because there would not be enough space to drill the horizontal mounting holes on each side of the front toe-kick panel.
In theory, you could order the cabinets with no toe kick and build your own 1-inch-tall platform on site. You could then wrap the platform with base molding to match the cabinet fronts and set the cabinets on top. This can work well because the platform can be leveled before the cabinets are installed, making the installation easier.
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Sure, we sell the doors separately at this link.
