Member Chad
MemberForum Replies Created
-
Thanks for your business! The Barker Cabinets clearcoat is a conversion varnish, so you cannot really exactly match to it with the exact product. For touch ups you can use a Minwax clear poly with a satin sheen as this is the closest I have seen.
-
Typically you would not add finished ends there. The DW would cover all of that space, so it would be a waste of panels as well as it would eat up 1.5″ of storage space. For a nice built-in look, use a fully integrated DW with a matching appliance panel on the face. We sell matching appliance panels here:
https://www.citycabinets.com/Kitchen-Appliance-Panels-s/322.htm
-
All of our cabinet doors (excluding the slab plywood which are 3/4″) 13/16″ thick. So just slightly thicker than 3/4″.
-
Yes, just leave a 24″ wide gap between the two cabinets. This is perfectly acceptable and very common. The appliance case is typically used in situations where there isn’t support on one side of the dishwasher opening—but it sounds like you have plenty of support on both sides.
Keep in mind that there are shorter models of dishwashers available that will fit the opening. They’re just not as popular as the taller models. If I remember correctly, these are considered ADA-style dishwashers.
Most people are ordering the Bosch 800 Series dishwashers—here’s the one I was referring to:
-
A 2″ tall crown is considered very small. We do offer a 3″ tall crown in both the Portland and Shaker styles. Typically, a 2″ crown is small enough that adding detailed molding isn’t really worthwhile—flat molding is usually used instead. However, if you’d like to add some detail, you can order the flat molding as a backer and attach a build-up piece to the face. This piece is technically 3.5″ tall, but it can easily be ripped down to a 2″ height on site with minimal issues, since the top edge will be up against the ceiling.
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/mportlandbuildup.htm
-
Sure, glad to see a post here. See here:
1. I have just added the product of ordering additional extra set/sets of the Movento slides to the CityCabinets.com website. These are hidden for now (not advertising this), but they are searchable here: https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/movento21.htm
Note that this will not decrease your Tandem slide count. This is in an addition to the order so you will be left with an extra set of Tandem slides when you are done assembling. No credit will be issued as trying to delete a singe set of slides, or swapping them for Moventos will surely cause issues with our hardware counts and paperwork generation.2. Typically, depending on the hood insert model, you will have various mounting holes on the backside and possibly on the left or right sides. The face usually does not have any, but again, this depends on the model. Screw directly into the 3/4″ thick plywood, being careful not to punch through the face of the material. The hood enclosure cabinet must come with the three panel configuration. The issue is stability as if there is not center stile or rail on larger doors, then you will literally have the door fall apart during installation or even transit.
3. Yes, I should get back into a new set of tutorials. I plan to do this in the future, but the issue right now is that I don’t work in that program on a daily basis, so I end up having to relearn everything each time I jump back into it. We work daily with Cabinet Vision software—Chief is just for our customers, as it’s much easier to operate than Cabinet Vision.
-
Yes, a cooktop can generally be installed into any base cabinet, as long as the gas or electrical lines don’t interfere with the operation of the drawer boxes. Many—if not most—electric induction cooktops are very low-profile and barely extend into the cabinet at all. This allows you to place them above drawers without any issues, as the countertop thickness typically provides enough clearance to accommodate the body of the cooktop unit underneath. That said, it’s always best to check the specifications of the cooktop to confirm its depth.
If you’re concerned about gas or electrical line clearance, you could opt for a base cabinet without a top drawer. The top drawer is usually the only component that might pose a problem in terms of interference.
Cutting into the top stretchers or the full top panel of a base cabinet is completely acceptable after the countertops have been installed. Countertops are usually glued down to those stretchers or tops, which are primarily there to keep the cabinet square and stable during installation, as well as to support the countertop. Once the countertop is secured in place, modifying the support structure underneath is perfectly fine—the countertop itself (especially granite or other solid surfaces) will provide adequate support moving forward.
-
See this link, then choose the style you are looking to purchase. You will then see all the drawer fronts as well as doors available for that style:
https://www.barkerdoor.com/Custom-Cabinet-Doors-s/5.htm
-
Sure, ordering a 12” HEIGHT base cabinet will yield a 12” tall cabinet that has a 4” tall toe kick included in that height. Toe kicks are never added to the HEIGHT dimension:
-
Thanks for your business!
-
You can fill and sand the construction holes, then sand the entire side and paint it. This process is common, but it requires significant effort and experience to achieve a clean, professional look. Finished end panels eliminate that extra work and create a seamless RTA installation.
I’ve just added a new appliance garage cabinet. It will feature the same stay-up lift arm, but this version is designed without a bottom so it can be installed directly on top of a countertop. See here:
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w1dflipupaventoshkxsnobot.htm
Let me know if you want the exposed thick version added.
-
This reply was modified 1 year, 7 months ago by
Chad.
-
This reply was modified 1 year, 7 months ago by
-
Sure, there are several ways to hide the screws if you truly don’t want them visible when opening the cabinets. Personally, I find that the screw locations are usually discreet enough that it doesn’t bother me to place them next to the hinge plates, on the hinged side of the cabinet toward the front. With a bit of extra effort, you can even hide the screw under the hinge arm itself.
For drawer cabinets, you can tuck the screws under the slides. That said, it’s usually not a big concern since the drawers tend to block the interior view anyway.
As for the rear support screws, you can conceal them behind the cabinet back, underneath the rear stretchers. Keep in mind that this makes it nearly impossible to disconnect the cabinets from each other once they’re installed on the wall—but the screws will definitely be hidden from view.
When attaching cabinets to wall studs, the quickest way to conceal screw heads is by using matching FastCaps. Alternatively, you could use a more decorative cabinet screw with a large pan head. I’ve seen both approaches used, and either one can look good.
-
I can certainly add this cabinet, but I do have some concerns about the exposed edges, which would require an additional finished end panel. Our finished ends are 3/4″ thick, so if the cabinet side is exposed, you’d be left with a 2.25″ wide stile. That’s not terrible, but I’m not a fan of the seam where the end panel face meets the face of the adjacent cabinet ends.
Are you planning to place this cabinet between other cabinets? If so, that would be perfectly acceptable, and I’d be happy to add this type of cabinet to the website.
-
2025 Barkerdoor.com branded products are sprayed with the following:
Cabinet Doors/Drawer Fronts:
Painted: 1 x 5 mil layer of waterborne universal primer, 2 layers x 5 mil of solvent based conversion varnish paint
Clearcoat: 1 x 5 mil layer of sealer, 1 x 5 mil top coat of solvent based conversion varnishDrawer boxes
Clearcoat- 2 x 5 mil layers of waterbourne natural matte clearcoat -
The flip-up cabinets would be the best and closest match to what you’re looking for in an appliance garage, available via CityCabinets.com. The old tambour door appliance garages from decades ago have been discontinued and are rarely used anymore due to the high failure rate of that hardware.
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w1dflipupaventoshkxs.htm
Or an exposed open cabinet like this:
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w1dflipupaventoshkxs.htm
