Member Chad
MemberForum Replies Created
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I have just added this to Citycabinets.com.
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w2dintegrateducl.htm
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w1dintegrateducl.htmSlight different design, but the same idea. I will add to barkercabinets.com next.
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https://www.barkercabinets.com/0-door-exposed-interior-corner-shelf-cabinet-p/wopenshelfcorner.htm
The open shelf corner cabinet listed on barkercabinets.com is one cabinet we have been phasing out over the years. The issue with this cabinet is that the top and bottom are angled and must be machined on the CNC. This setup can be unstable due to limited clamping space while the part is being processed.
Since it is not currently listed in a category on Barker Cabinets, we have not added it to CityCabinets.com. Instead, I would recommend using a standard finished end panel. The machining challenges with this cabinet can sometimes lead to slight alignment issues at joints, which can affect assembly and final appearance.
That cabinet would be built the same whether ordered through barkercabinets.com or Citycabinets.com. There is no difference in construction, as the interior is exposed and both lines use American-sourced plywood for these types of cabinets. -
Typically, you will install the toe kick skin tight to the underside of the cabinet. This can leave a small gap at the bottom where the toe skin meets the flooring.
If the flooring is uneven and a gap needs to be covered, use a shoe molding to finish it off. The advantage of shoe molding is that it is flexible enough to contour to slight variations in the floor and effectively hide any gaps.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Base-Shoe-p/shoe.htm
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A 2.50″ toe kick height is not available, as the FTOE part becomes too small to safely run on the CNC during horizontal hole drilling operations.
The best option to achieve a 2.5″ tall toe kick is to order the cabinet with no toe kick, then build a 2.5″ tall platform on site for the cabinet to sit on. Typically, 2×4 lumber works well for this and can be finished by covering it with a cut-down toe kick skin for a clean look.
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Yes, this will keep the solid wood slab top drawer front and make all lower drawer fronts match it exactly in solid wood slab construction with a horizontal grain pattern. The top drawer front is horizontal grain, and selecting the “Solid Wood Slab / Flat Lower Fronts” option ensures all lower fronts match with the same horizontal grain.
When this option is selected, all drawer fronts on this cabinet are built in solid wood and match the thickness of our real wood frame doors (such as Shaker, Windsor, etc.), finishing at approximately 13/16″.
Now, comparing this to the slab plywood door style: if this cabinet were ordered with slab plywood instead, it would have a noticeably different look. Slab plywood fronts use a vertical grain orientation and finish at approximately 3/4″ thickness, as that reflects the thickness of the plywood.
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If you select the “slab plywood” door style, it will override the “solid wood slab” option, even if that is selected. Solid wood slabs are only available when a five-piece door style is chosen.
Long story short, about five years ago we launched barkermodern.com as a standalone website focused solely on slab-style doors. The goal was to eliminate confusion like this. However, once we got into the details, mixing real wood options with plywood and imported laminates that closely mimic real wood made the site difficult to keep clear and easy to understand.
At one point, we removed slab plywood from the Barker Cabinets website entirely, but due to strong customer demand, we brought it back since it continued to sell well. As a result, we are left with this somewhat awkward override behavior during ordering. It is not perfect, but it works. The only real fix would be launching a completely separate cabinet line or website just for real wood slab plywood doors, which is not something we plan to do 😉
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Also, based on your photo, it looks like this may be getting sprayed. If that’s the case, it appears the operator is angling the spray gun to hit the inside edge, which is causing an extra pass of stain to build up around the panel edge and along the stiles and rails.
In other words, the gun angle is favoring that inside edge. This leads to excess stain accumulating on the frame faces while the center of the panel is under-covered or missed entirely.
A better approach is to apply multiple light coats in a consistent, even pattern without favoring the inside edges of the frame, basically forgetting about them altogether. That will help eliminate the haloing around the panel. As always, staining involves some trial and error to dial in the technique.
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The cabinet back will have a vertical seam because it is split into two pieces. This is not a structural back and does not provide rigidity. It is simply the thin rear panel that covers the wall and cabinet nailers.
We split the back on larger cabinets like this to avoid excessive shipping costs. For example, a single 36 inch wide by 72 inch tall, 1/4 inch thick back panel would be considered oversized. That type of piece can cost more to ship than the cabinet itself and may even require a dedicated pallet. Carriers charge significantly more for oversized freight. Splitting the back into two pieces helps avoid those charges and can save hundreds of dollars.
Rollouts are not easily adjustable, but they can be adjusted if needed by drilling new holes after the cabinet is installed and assembled.
Detailed rollout assembly and installation is shown here: https://www.citycabinets.com/Install-rollout-shelves-s/130.htmThe first rollout is placed at the bottom of the cabinet. The remaining rollouts are then spaced evenly throughout the interior.
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Sure, see here for a side view of this cabinet with CAD.
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Rift white oak is one of the few woods that is naturally water resistant and therefore slows the absorption of stain. White oak has long been used in boat building for this reason, as it resists water penetration.
All of our rift white oak is milled, shaped, sanded, and left raw. No manufacturer would apply a coating to raw wood unless it is specifically ordered that way, as it would be extremely counterproductive and essentially add cost for no reason.
I am not familiar with the exact product or process you used, but when we stain white oak, we mist/spray the entire door in two passes to prevent waves and uneven blotchiness. Our process is machine sprayed for consistency, which removes human variation.
We use a water based stain, applied in two light coats with drying/oven curing time between each pass. After that, we apply two clear topcoats to fully seal the product and lock in the stain. Sanding is only done between the clear coats using a fine grit sandpaper, never sanding the actual stain itself as that can leave swirls.
If I can make one recommendation to anyone staining wood, start with very light coats and build up gradually. Apply at least two light coats, and more if needed. Do not try to achieve full coverage in a single pass, as the stain will pool and bead.
In theory, you can apply as many coats as needed, allowing proper drying time between each application, then finish with a topcoat to seal the surface. Trial and error is key until you develop a process that is consistent and repeatable.
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First, see the proper versions here, which include a matching interior that aligns with the cabinet face and doors. These work very well with clear glass, since the interior matches the door finish:
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w1dglass.htm
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w2dglass.htmNext are the standard one door and two door wall cabinets. On the ordering screen, you can swap the doors for a glass option. These are less expensive per cabinet, but the interior remains the standard prefinished birch plywood. That interior will not match the glass doors, which is usually not desirable when using clear glass:
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w2d.htm
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w1d.htm -
Currently, we do not offer cabinets without doors. We used to provide that option, but it led to recurring issues with customers mis-sizing replacement doors and mounting hole locations not transferring correctly. Because of those problems, we discontinued that option about ten years ago.
The better approach is to order the cabinets with the most cost-effective door style and material. You can then use those doors as a template for fabricating new doors from another source.
Keep in mind that our cabinets are built with very tight reveals between doors. Replacement doors must be extremely precise and perfectly square to avoid rubbing and alignment issues.
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The TEXPOSED cabinet has a finished interior and is designed to be visible, with a matching interior wood species and finish that aligns with the cabinet face and surrounding doors and drawer fronts.
Our standard interior material is prefinished clear-coated maple, which typically does not look ideal next to darker finishes like cherry, maple, walnut, etc. The TEXPOSED option is more expensive because the interior can be ordered in cherry with a matching stain to the doors.
The cabinet DJ requested is the less expensive version of the TREXPOSED with a prefinished maple interior and no door. This version is not intended to be visible as-is and should have a door, appliance, or other covering added to the front to conceal the interior.
In some cases, customers use another manufacturer’s doors and install them on our cabinet cases. This allows them to match an existing kitchen without replacing all cabinets or when adding a few units to an existing run.
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Sounds good. Thanks!
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To request a change to the drawer box depth for that cabinet, simply include the request in the notes field at checkout, on the screen where you enter your credit card. Keep the notes brief, as too many details can complicate order processing.
Personally, I think that configuration may look unbalanced. We can attempt it as a custom request if you would like, but I recommend sticking with the standard options to keep things simple.
