Please email customer service at info@citycabinets.com for any issues.

I checked this job file and found the issue. It looks like a fix we made back in April to correct intermittent unaligned dadoes caused an alignment issue in our cabinet layout program. As a result, the dado missed its mark and was never slated to be performed.

I have corrected this in your job file, and we will remake the single right side of that cabinet as needed.

The picture you posted is from the info bubble on each cabinet. This shows the exact paint mixture we use to spray our Dover color. This is not a match to a standard Sherwin-Williams Dover White color chip as ours is just a slight bit different. Please see below for more information on why this is the case:

Please note that all of our painted finishes are not color matched to current Sherwin-Williams color codes. They are custom matched to older samples from more than 20 years ago, when we were spraying conversion varnish-based paints and stains.

Below are the current formulas we use for each of our paints. We strongly recommend ordering a sample to view the color under your actual project lighting conditions. For best results, color matching should be done using an actual door from your final order to avoid slight variations between batches mixed at different times and spraying processes. This also helps prevent discrepancies caused by aging, sample wear, or handling. Matching at your local Sherwin-Williams store is quick, so it is best to do this at the final stage to avoid issues during installation.

Nice, this is great feedback on stain applications.

We are currently working on some new tint options this month. The issue with stains is that they can be problematic to apply in the field, especially on existing millwork or other on-site items.

We have made some progress with adding pigments directly into the clearcoat finish, which allows us to skip the stain application step before the clearcoat is applied. This helps tone down the natural grain and color variation of the wood, making it possible to either lighten or darken the material in a much more consistent way. The underlying grain and color tone become less dominant in the final look.

Most recently, we tested what we are calling a Weathered finish. This is a clearcoat with a small amount of Italian-made titanium dioxide added as pigment. The effect is that it softly washes out the color of the material while still allowing some of the wood grain to show through, almost like a subtle mask. It is very promising.

For the Tamarack color, we tested what we will internally call a Smoked finish. The Smoked finish is great because it creates a very tasteful, minimal layer that slightly darkens the material to mimic Tamarack, but without adding red tones.

I will post pictures of the tests so we can all review. Note that this is in testing only, we may not add these to the website, just testing for fun 😉

We have it custom mixed by a local company here in Portland, so it can be a bit tough to get an exact match. That said, a local paint shop should be able to get close.

We sell the Chestnut stain at the link below. This stain is water-based, so it goes on easily, but it is really meant to be sprayed on, as that is how we apply it in our large flat-line finishing process to ensure consistency. Clearcoat is then applied over the top.

Sherwin-Williams Gallery clear in a 20 sheen is an almost exact match to what we use. We use their industrial line, called AkromaPro, but the underlying formula is almost identical.

You can wipe the stain on, but certain woods may get blotchy, especially alder and maple, so be careful with those species.

https://www.barkerdoor.com/Chestnut-wood-stain-medium-stain-water-based-p/chestnutstain.htm

The top drawer front will stay locked in at 5 7/8″ tall. Only the lower front will increase in height proportionally.

This is true as long as you leave the Drawer Front Heights option set to the default setting.

If you select Equal Height Fronts, then the fronts will stay equal in height and will all increase proportionally as the cabinet height gets taller.

Yeah, for the kitchen upper cabinets, I would go with exposed shelves up top and then match the stain as closely as possible.

We would not be able to match the existing stain on our end, so you would likely want to handle that locally. The best option would be to take one of the older doors to a local paint or stain shop and have them match the color directly from the sample.

The material in the photos looks like red oak to me. We do sell new red oak wall cabinets with exposed interior construction, so the cabinet interiors would be raw red oak and could be stained on site.

https://www.citycabinets.com/Exposed-Interior-Kitchen-Cabinets-s/95.htm

For the under-stairs area, this is a bit trickier because you are getting into some very shallow-depth cabinetry. What you currently have looks like it works fairly well and looks good. Adding shallow-depth cabinets in that area could make it look worse unless it is done with a high level of finish carpentry so the new cabinet work blends cleanly into the existing casework.

I don’t have the cabinet pulled up in CAD right now, and we offer two separate tray wall cabinet versions, so this really depends on which one is being used.

You should have about 3″ of space between each tray divider partition. That is pretty tight, so if you cannot access the back by hand, a longer drill extension may be the best option to make it work.

Personally, I have only installed the version where the trays stop about halfway up inside the cabinet, so unfortunately I have not installed this exact version on site.