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Sure, so when using this cabinet, you will have a 5 7/8″ tall top drawer front as a standard. T his top drawer front height is standard as it will align with other top drawer fronts.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Base-1-Drawer-Appliance-Case-p/b1drappliancecasetall.htmLooks like that ref is 34″ tall, so I would suggest ordering that cabinet at 40.75″ tall to ensure you have a bit of extra space in the opening height.
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Easiest way to achieve clearance would be to simply order the cabinets slightly lower in height, then fill in the gaps using a trim molding or wood blocking in between the supports. Our cabinets do not have a face frame, so it is not possible to make for a wide rail on the top of the cabinets as your photo shows.
The Dover is a bit warmer of a color and has its own edge banding separate from the Pure. They are close in color, but we still change the banding so it has an exact color match.
Sure, see the attached photos here. First is the new Chestnut edge banding showing the grain and color matching. The PVC tape is much more durable than a stained real wood and looks and feels virtually identical to the real thing. Same for the Pure and Dover Whites.
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I checked, and the absolute minimum frame width we can offer for a frame-and-panel door is about 1 7/8″. This allows for hinge cups at the proper depth while ensuring the door remains strong enough to prevent breakage over time. At this smaller width, there may be slight warping or bowing on taller doors, but it would be minimal.
To match your reference door exactly, we would need to start with a 3/4″ thick slab plywood door and add an outside edge detail molding. The frame width in your picture appears to be 7/8″ to 1″, which is too narrow to be constructed using a traditional frame-and-panel method.
The difficulty arises from the need for a 3/4″ thick substrate to support the hinges. Since the hinge cup must be drilled just over 1/2″ deep, there must be enough material thickness to avoid drilling through the door face. Adding outside molding to mimic the 7/8″ frame width is possible, but the door would then need to be at least 7/8″ to 15/16″ thick to maintain a proper frame-to-panel distance.
At 7/8″ thick edges, our standard 1/8″ reveals between doors would cause interference. When opened, the doors would rub against adjacent ones. Reducing the door thickness isn’t an option either, as it would prevent drilling the hinge cup to the required depth.
Additionally, Blum soft-close hinges require an integrated mechanism inside the hinge cup. If the door is too thin, we’d have to switch to non-soft-close hinges, which require a different drilling pattern. Other cabinet lines get around this by increasing door gaps to 1/4″ or more, but this results in a less refined construction method.
Ultimately, this skinny door style would require significant handwork to apply the outside molding and would be too thick for standard hinges. It’s probably not the best fit for our product line, as the price, durability, and production efficiency would suffer. This design introduces complications that could slow down production and create inconsistencies in quality.
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Sure, we can make any necessary changes. All of our cabinets are considered “full overlay,” which refers to a construction style without a face frame—so the doors overlap the face of the cabinet as much as possible. It looks like Clayton has already reached out about the change, so I’ll leave it to him to adjust the door style on the order if you’d like.
Regarding the door styles: Westminster and San Antonio are almost identical. The main difference is in the inside edge detail where the frame and panel meet. Westminster is slightly more intricate, featuring a “triple bead” detail, while San Antonio has a more pronounced drop edge with a smaller ogee profile. Please see the attached close-up pictures for a clearer comparison.
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When in doubt, always include a note on the order to confirm any size changes as needed. For single-door and drawer base cabinets, the top drawer front is fixed at our standard height of 5 7/8″. This dimension will not change, even if the overall height of the cabinet is modified.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Base-1-door-and-1-drawer-p/b1d1dr.htm
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I haven’t heard of anyone adding a false front to a 45-degree sink base cabinet on-site. The main challenge with this is that the top and bottom panels are quite large and require precise machining on the CNC. Parts of this size can be difficult to hold down during horizontal boring for assembly holes.
If a false front were added, it would require a fixed shelf to secure the backer that supports the front. This additional shelf would significantly increase the cost of the cabinet without providing much benefit in terms of aesthetics or functionality. Most people opt to use the two doors as they are, which works well and keeps things simple.
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See here for a wire diagram for a blind corner with left return. I do not have access to a wire frame for that exact cabinet code you listed, but that one assembles the same, just doesn’t have the integrated filled protruding from the face of the blank panel.
Essentially the blind corner cabinets assemble just like any other cabinet. The only difference is that the blank panel is attached to the face of that cabinet using the regular confirmat screws provided, and overlaps the left side of the cabinet by 1”. This overlap eliminates issues with drywall corners that have a round to them. The door is then attached to the back side of that blank panel using a regular hinge plate and a special blind corner hinge. The blank panel IS NOT included with the cabinet case parts. It is wrapped up separately as it is made from matching cabinet door material and much more susceptible to damage in transit.
If you are missing a cabinet case part, be sure to search through the shipment as that single part likely had to be remade and inserted elsewhere in the shipment since it did not pass quality control with all the other pieces. Do not halt assembly of other cabinets being assembled as it could very well turn up after you have moved through the majority of packaging. If you are nearing completion and still don’t have the part, then please email clayton@barkercabinets.com for a replacement part. Should only take a few days to expedite and ship out as needed. Thanks!
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What are you trying to match, and how precise does it need to be?
Flush Construction
The upper and lower cabinets are constructed using a flush/inset cabinet construction method. This approach was something we offered over 20 years ago but have since transitioned to a frameless cabinet construction method. A flush/inset style isn’t feasible in a ready-to-assemble format. These cabinets are built in very long sections, where multiple cabinet openings are created as a single piece or unit and installed together. This is different from assembling multiple cabinets in a row and screwing them together.
While this style has a clean, elegant look, it does come with trade-offs:
Reduced storage space.
The need to create a face frame to support the doors and drawers.The Doors
We can get close to the look of the doors. These are a modified shaker style with a beveled or slightly profiled inside edge detail (where the frame meets the door panel). This beveled edge is popular because it minimizes the small corners where dust and debris can accumulate, making it easier to maintain.
The doors are made from rift-sawn white oak, which has been our standard since late last year (previously, we offered quarter-sawn white oak). The finish would typically be clear or something similar to highlight the wood’s natural beauty.
For reference, our cabinets will look more similar to this picture. This pic shows a frameless construction and a rift sawn white oak cabinet door style. This picture is not our product, but this is something that will look very close. The finish looks a bit blotchy on this pic, so maybe ignore that. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/162762974025088262/
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Sure. This one is a bit of an odd REF as I am not seeing any specs detailing any requirement for the door panel.
I checked AJ Maddison’s website for specs and see no dimensions other than the standard spec sheet.
Click to access DEC2450W-spec_sheet.pdf
Further research shows that they apparently sell a door panel for this model as a separate SKU.
Stainless here. https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/7025337.htmlSome sort of wood solid panel here: https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/7031926.html
We can certainly offer a glass door version of our appliance panel, but there would be a notch cut out on the backside that is there to accept a 1/4” thick glass panel. This might not work well here. Ideally you would want a glass door frame constructed using pocket screws and 3/4” solid stock, so a cabinet face frame essentially. This would be ideal since the ref already has glass. Unfortunately we do not sell and manufacture face frame style cabinets for about 10 years now. Basically we sold all that equipment about 12 years ago with the switch over to our frameless cabinet cases. A local shop should be able to build this rather easily so long as they sell face frame cabinets, but we would need to get some more accurate specs first.
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Sure, fairly simple, I would recommend a flip up door cabinet here. Likely your REF will be 48″ wide, or if you have two columns, they will combine to be a total of 48″ wide. This is too wide for a single 1 door flip up cabinet as the doors would be almost 48″ wide and very short. Instead, you would need to break that upper into two separate flip up cabinets. See pics.
Note that the flip up lift cabinets are not available at lower than 12″ in height. Since these cabinets are so high up in elevation. I would suggest just getting some regular non-stay-up door cabinets as there is little need to regular access to these areas. They are really only there for looks and occasional holiday storage.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/1-door-flip-up-cabinet-p/w1dflipup.htm
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The UCL would work, but it has a backer piece attached which could cause issues. Only our CityCabinets.com line has 6″ tall base molding currently. I will change this in the future. For now, this might be better: https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/mrail.htm
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