Member Chad
MemberForum Replies Created
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How slim are you looking for?
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Sure, we can make any necessary changes. All of our cabinets are considered “full overlay,” which refers to a construction style without a face frame—so the doors overlap the face of the cabinet as much as possible. It looks like Clayton has already reached out about the change, so I’ll leave it to him to adjust the door style on the order if you’d like.
Regarding the door styles: Westminster and San Antonio are almost identical. The main difference is in the inside edge detail where the frame and panel meet. Westminster is slightly more intricate, featuring a “triple bead” detail, while San Antonio has a more pronounced drop edge with a smaller ogee profile. Please see the attached close-up pictures for a clearer comparison.
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When in doubt, always include a note on the order to confirm any size changes as needed. For single-door and drawer base cabinets, the top drawer front is fixed at our standard height of 5 7/8″. This dimension will not change, even if the overall height of the cabinet is modified.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Base-1-door-and-1-drawer-p/b1d1dr.htm
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I haven’t heard of anyone adding a false front to a 45-degree sink base cabinet on-site. The main challenge with this is that the top and bottom panels are quite large and require precise machining on the CNC. Parts of this size can be difficult to hold down during horizontal boring for assembly holes.
If a false front were added, it would require a fixed shelf to secure the backer that supports the front. This additional shelf would significantly increase the cost of the cabinet without providing much benefit in terms of aesthetics or functionality. Most people opt to use the two doors as they are, which works well and keeps things simple.
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See here for a wire diagram for a blind corner with left return. I do not have access to a wire frame for that exact cabinet code you listed, but that one assembles the same, just doesn’t have the integrated filled protruding from the face of the blank panel.
Essentially the blind corner cabinets assemble just like any other cabinet. The only difference is that the blank panel is attached to the face of that cabinet using the regular confirmat screws provided, and overlaps the left side of the cabinet by 1”. This overlap eliminates issues with drywall corners that have a round to them. The door is then attached to the back side of that blank panel using a regular hinge plate and a special blind corner hinge. The blank panel IS NOT included with the cabinet case parts. It is wrapped up separately as it is made from matching cabinet door material and much more susceptible to damage in transit.
If you are missing a cabinet case part, be sure to search through the shipment as that single part likely had to be remade and inserted elsewhere in the shipment since it did not pass quality control with all the other pieces. Do not halt assembly of other cabinets being assembled as it could very well turn up after you have moved through the majority of packaging. If you are nearing completion and still don’t have the part, then please email clayton@barkercabinets.com for a replacement part. Should only take a few days to expedite and ship out as needed. Thanks!
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Our doors come with a stile and rail width of 2 5/8”.
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What are you trying to match, and how precise does it need to be?
Flush Construction
The upper and lower cabinets are constructed using a flush/inset cabinet construction method. This approach was something we offered over 20 years ago but have since transitioned to a frameless cabinet construction method. A flush/inset style isn’t feasible in a ready-to-assemble format. These cabinets are built in very long sections, where multiple cabinet openings are created as a single piece or unit and installed together. This is different from assembling multiple cabinets in a row and screwing them together.
While this style has a clean, elegant look, it does come with trade-offs:
Reduced storage space.
The need to create a face frame to support the doors and drawers.The Doors
We can get close to the look of the doors. These are a modified shaker style with a beveled or slightly profiled inside edge detail (where the frame meets the door panel). This beveled edge is popular because it minimizes the small corners where dust and debris can accumulate, making it easier to maintain.
The doors are made from rift-sawn white oak, which has been our standard since late last year (previously, we offered quarter-sawn white oak). The finish would typically be clear or something similar to highlight the wood’s natural beauty.
For reference, our cabinets will look more similar to this picture. This pic shows a frameless construction and a rift sawn white oak cabinet door style. This picture is not our product, but this is something that will look very close. The finish looks a bit blotchy on this pic, so maybe ignore that. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/162762974025088262/
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This reply was modified 1 year, 8 months ago by
Chad. Reason: spelling and grammer, yikes
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This reply was modified 1 year, 8 months ago by
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Sure. This one is a bit of an odd REF as I am not seeing any specs detailing any requirement for the door panel.
I checked AJ Maddison’s website for specs and see no dimensions other than the standard spec sheet.
https://assets.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/DEC2450W-spec_sheet.pdf
Further research shows that they apparently sell a door panel for this model as a separate SKU.
Stainless here. https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/7025337.htmlSome sort of wood solid panel here: https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/7031926.html
We can certainly offer a glass door version of our appliance panel, but there would be a notch cut out on the backside that is there to accept a 1/4” thick glass panel. This might not work well here. Ideally you would want a glass door frame constructed using pocket screws and 3/4” solid stock, so a cabinet face frame essentially. This would be ideal since the ref already has glass. Unfortunately we do not sell and manufacture face frame style cabinets for about 10 years now. Basically we sold all that equipment about 12 years ago with the switch over to our frameless cabinet cases. A local shop should be able to build this rather easily so long as they sell face frame cabinets, but we would need to get some more accurate specs first.
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Sure, fairly simple, I would recommend a flip up door cabinet here. Likely your REF will be 48″ wide, or if you have two columns, they will combine to be a total of 48″ wide. This is too wide for a single 1 door flip up cabinet as the doors would be almost 48″ wide and very short. Instead, you would need to break that upper into two separate flip up cabinets. See pics.
Note that the flip up lift cabinets are not available at lower than 12″ in height. Since these cabinets are so high up in elevation. I would suggest just getting some regular non-stay-up door cabinets as there is little need to regular access to these areas. They are really only there for looks and occasional holiday storage.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/1-door-flip-up-cabinet-p/w1dflipup.htm
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The UCL would work, but it has a backer piece attached which could cause issues. Only our CityCabinets.com line has 6″ tall base molding currently. I will change this in the future. For now, this might be better: https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/mrail.htm
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See here for a better side view with some dimensions.
The lower portion is only 6″ tall, so instead of ordering a full separate hood enclosure cabinet with a blank front at 6″ tall, it would be more cost effective to simply order some sticks of 6″ tall base molding and miter them on site to suit the lower box portion of this fancy hood enclosure. Your moldings that are applied to the top and bottom will stiffen it up quite a bit as well.
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I will post a side profile with dimensions on Monday. The pic I posted earlier was vague and now that I’m looking at it, needs to be adjusted.
Basically, you’d need to rip down the width to 2.25” wide (ours comes wider than that) on that Portland build up. Then use a Cap molding on the top and bottom to dress it up a bit. I’ll show this in a picture so it makes sense. This hood area is a fun little focal point that you can really get creative with. I put the range on the island in my home, but I have always loved that sort of cozy vibe that is instilled when it’s installed on the wall. You can do a lot of creative stuff by combining tile and woodworking trades here.
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Here is another idea:
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Also, this is a very old kitchen we did back in 2005, but I always enjoyed the sheer massiveness of this hood. A bit over the top, but it still hold up today.
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People often use that space as a focal point, going all out since it’s at eye level. The impact really depends on your level of ornamentation—it can either make the area pop or become an eyesore. Personally, I appreciate all styles, but a clean, transitional design aesthetic works well in most cases.
I’ve seen a variety of approaches, including custom-made copper hood enclosures, designs supported by large, chunky corbels, and more streamlined oversized enclosures that give the impression of being seamlessly framed. Here are a few examples that come to mind.
If you plan to incorporate some corbels, See Osbourne Wood product. I have used them in the past for various projects with good results. https://www.osbornewood.com/
We also sell various moldings by themselves that allow you to build and customize the hood enclosure to your liking: https://www.citycabinets.com/Advanced-Crown-Selection-s/205.htm
