[djd]

106 pages of hinges. Simply incredible. 🤯

Gemini has clued me into another potential solution. Not quite as elegant but seems like it will do the trick.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Restraint-Cupboard-Restrict-Flexible/dp/B01MZE4RYL

[djd]

Thanks Chad

[djd]

While we’re at it. What would the appropriate angle restrictor clip be for the tall pantry cabinet and any other standard wall/base door cabinets (believe they are same hinges)? Prob ok without in those locations but if kids start banging things I want to be ready! 🙂

[djd]

Thanks Chad. I like the “remove top fixed shelf option but confused on the front face part. In my case there are 2 sink decks and I’m pretty sure the visible front trim below apron is a separate piece. I should be able to just remove the top deck and leave the front alone right?

Wasn’t sure on the weight rating if I do that also as Kohler tells me it needs to support 300lb (sink + potential load). Is 1 deck enough?

Thanks again for helping work through all this.

[djd]

Few updates from talking w/ Kohler Customer Service:
* They say there is natural variation in dimensions due to the cast iron and glazing process but couldn’t specify a specific +/- tolerance the sink should be within.
* They were surprised by the platform support approach and said typically the feet are not all in plane as the sink is meant to be installed with side supports. If going with the platform route they suggested leaving more of a margin to allow for variation and shimming as needed.
* That said, they agreed to swap the sink out and see if we get a bit luckier with one that is a true 9 5/8″.
* If that doesn’t do the trick we will likely need to drill out some of the top support deck or even remove it entirely and add cleats on the left and right.

FWIW I saw the note in the item page “…In some cases of hand made sinks, you may want to order the apron sink opening slightly larger…” but also saw the Youtube tutorial video said to go off of the spec’d sink height. May wish to make that caveat more prominent on the product listing. Much easier to shim up than lower it down.

[djd]

Cabinets are here and we’re making progress!
Follow up re the 2D Tray Divider (#3 in earlier pic).

Is there a particular order of operations that will make this easier to install?
Seems once the tray dividers are in, it will be impossible to attach to the back wall and sides.
But once attached to the wall, it will be impossible to screw the dividers into the top of cabinet.

Am I missing something?

[djd]

Super clear. Thanks Chad.

[djd]

Thanks Chad. I had it within 1/16″! Close enough for government work.

[djd]

Sensible. Thanks.

[djd]

Perfect and understood. Many thanks. Again.

[djd]

Perfect. You continue to fill me with confidence. 🙂

One more Q on the sink side as I am laying things out.

What are your thoughts on increasing the drawer height on B1D1DR? I’m thinking dishtowels in the circled drawer to left of sink, and cutting boards below. Deeper drawer would make it more usable and bring lower door in line with the under sink doors.

Possibly weird alignment with the top row drawer handles though so not sure it’s worth it.

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[djd]

Ok I’m convinced! Appreciate the demo Chad and cabinets look great.

Another Q as I’m firming up what will go where.

On left and right of the stove I’d like to have a single rollout in the middle drawer.
From elsewhere in the forums seems like this is a possible customization?

Is it also possible to make the RO slightly deeper and sacrifice some of the remaining depth of the middle drawer? (see pic)
I am looking at 2 storage thingys for these RO’s and they are 3 1/4″ deep.

Thanks again.

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• This reply was modified 7 months, 1 week ago by  djd.

[djd]

At risk of beating the horse here, still wondering about the cabinet door adjacent to the fridge TFE.

See pic for our current situation. It drives me a bit nuts tbh as the door cannot open 90 degrees because it starts to rub with the fridge AND the handle protrudes 1″ from door.

For the Blumotion hinges, how does the door sit when open 90degrees?
e.g., is it in plane with the side of the cabinet, or sitting inward somewhat?
It seems to get the full 90 degree open I would need some spacer, or possibly to move to a single door so it opens beyond the TFE (although this would be a pretty large door ~21″ wide).

Thanks again

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[djd]

One more detail here Chad.

Some of the microwave combi oven’s call for ventilation up the back wall. Contemplating cutting a slot out of the top of the microwave cabinet and decreasing the depth of the cabinet overtop of it to give a channel up the back.

Would it be feasible to:
1. Cut ~1″ x 18″ out of the top microwave cabinet near back support rail (leaving support rail intact which seems to attach to sides).
2. Space the overhead cabinet off the wall w/ vertical 2×4 or similar to provide an air gap to top of cabinets?

[djd]

Still dotting i’s over here, Chad.

Re the 3 Drawer stack on far right. Planned this at 31″ wide and 26″ deep which is a BIG drawer (~29″ x 24″).
Is 1/4″ plywood base sufficient?