Member djd
MemberForum Replies Created
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One more thought re Upper Corner.
Would it be possible to do 2 independently opening doors that open outward from the corner to enable the glass and consistency with right of sink?
Worst case, would basically be your W90EXPOSED cabinets + 2 separate doors + I need to work out the appropriate hinges with my contractor.
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Weird. Comment #4140 seems to have not made it. Trying again:
1. Blind Base Corner
– Sounds like the shelves may not be removable AFTER construction but also they are NOT required? I could just build it without those and install a Lemans II instead?
– Alternatively, I could go with B1D1DRMAGICCORNERRIGHTV2 and your integrated Hafel Magic Corner. Can you confirm the front door/drawer dimensions if I went with 46″ overall width and 26″ blind? Assume would be 46 – 26 – ~3″ filler = ~17″ door and ~15.5″ opening? I would like to match this face to the drawer stack at left of peninsula.2. Upper Corner
Checking dimensions due to the deeper base. Planned 26″ width and depth. Would return be better as 12″ or 14″? or possibly split the diff and make it 13″?3. Glass video is great. You are everywhere! Do you have a recommended glass thickness to fit the routed edge and slots? I am looking at some patterned/textured options and don’t want to end up too thick.
Everything else super clear. Thanks again. Really look forward to getting this cabinet order in as it is rate limiting step!
Cheers
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Test. Replied 10′ ago but doesn’t seem to be showing up here.
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Very helpful Chad. Appreciate the thorough response and sanity check. Getting there!
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Meant to include view from dining room. This lower framed wall will back to peninsula with counter extending across the top of both.
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Super helpful Chad, thanks.
Couple follow ups to nail this section down (forgive me I am now in the “analysis paralysis” stage of planning!)1. Realized my cutout for HMC54151UC is 22″ minimum, so cabinet needs to be at least 22 3/4″. For an inch it may be simpler to just bring everything to a 24″ depth and call it a day. If I went that route, how best to finish the pantry side? Seems a WFE may work between base and wall units but then counter does not run full width of the drawer. I could run it from the base to bottom of wall unit but that will be ~50″ (longer than the tallest BFE option).
2. How tall are the back support rails in WAPPLIANCECASE? It looks like they may interfere with the outlet area. Possibly another reason for me to go with the full 24″ depth for some breathing room. Any other work arounds?
3. For the upper unit, are you able to offer W2DTRAYDIVIDER with the Aventos flip up door of W1DFLIPUPAVENTOSHKXS? Likely we will do some large pans either over the microwave or fridge – watch this space for a post re that wall 🙂
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Also, while I’m at it, couple questions re this layout.
Currently I have:
– 24″ deep pullout pantry
– 23″ deep base (slightly shallower to allow counter to terminate into side of pantry)
– 22″ deep upper (minimum needed for microwave and slightly shallower as trying to make lower counter slightly more usable for coffee or whatnot)Questions:
1. Are the different depths kinda dumb? lol. It doesn’t really gain much and then becomes a bit choppy plus also seems to require a mostly covered TFE?
2. Is the counter with full depth wall cabinet above it dumb?
3. Is there a simpler way of finishing off the pantry side or does it require floor to ceiling TFE in any case?That wall is 4′ so I could also just do full cabinets as 3x 15″ columns.
Many thanks
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This is really helpful Chad, thank you.
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Came for same question re filler next to TFE and would like to clarify.
How would this work if the door does not open beyond the TFE panel? Hardware would seem to interfere without some spacing.
In my case, looking at 24″ wide x 14″ deep 2D upper, next to a 27-28″ deep panel. Door will only extend ~26″ from the wall when open so was assuming I will need a spacer here.
Struggling to fit everything without it becoming crammed tbh.
Many thanks.
