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Perfect. You continue to fill me with confidence. 🙂
One more Q on the sink side as I am laying things out.
What are your thoughts on increasing the drawer height on B1D1DR? I’m thinking dishtowels in the circled drawer to left of sink, and cutting boards below. Deeper drawer would make it more usable and bring lower door in line with the under sink doors.
Possibly weird alignment with the top row drawer handles though so not sure it’s worth it.
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Ok I’m convinced! Appreciate the demo Chad and cabinets look great.
Another Q as I’m firming up what will go where.
On left and right of the stove I’d like to have a single rollout in the middle drawer.
From elsewhere in the forums seems like this is a possible customization?Is it also possible to make the RO slightly deeper and sacrifice some of the remaining depth of the middle drawer? (see pic)
I am looking at 2 storage thingys for these RO’s and they are 3 1/4″ deep.Thanks again.
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At risk of beating the horse here, still wondering about the cabinet door adjacent to the fridge TFE.
See pic for our current situation. It drives me a bit nuts tbh as the door cannot open 90 degrees because it starts to rub with the fridge AND the handle protrudes 1″ from door.
For the Blumotion hinges, how does the door sit when open 90degrees?
e.g., is it in plane with the side of the cabinet, or sitting inward somewhat?
It seems to get the full 90 degree open I would need some spacer, or possibly to move to a single door so it opens beyond the TFE (although this would be a pretty large door ~21″ wide).Thanks again
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One more detail here Chad.
Some of the microwave combi oven’s call for ventilation up the back wall. Contemplating cutting a slot out of the top of the microwave cabinet and decreasing the depth of the cabinet overtop of it to give a channel up the back.
Would it be feasible to:
1. Cut ~1″ x 18″ out of the top microwave cabinet near back support rail (leaving support rail intact which seems to attach to sides).
2. Space the overhead cabinet off the wall w/ vertical 2×4 or similar to provide an air gap to top of cabinets?Still dotting i’s over here, Chad.
Re the 3 Drawer stack on far right. Planned this at 31″ wide and 26″ deep which is a BIG drawer (~29″ x 24″).
Is 1/4″ plywood base sufficient?One more thought re Upper Corner.
Would it be possible to do 2 independently opening doors that open outward from the corner to enable the glass and consistency with right of sink?
Worst case, would basically be your W90EXPOSED cabinets + 2 separate doors + I need to work out the appropriate hinges with my contractor.
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Weird. Comment #4140 seems to have not made it. Trying again:
1. Blind Base Corner
– Sounds like the shelves may not be removable AFTER construction but also they are NOT required? I could just build it without those and install a Lemans II instead?
– Alternatively, I could go with B1D1DRMAGICCORNERRIGHTV2 and your integrated Hafel Magic Corner. Can you confirm the front door/drawer dimensions if I went with 46″ overall width and 26″ blind? Assume would be 46 – 26 – ~3″ filler = ~17″ door and ~15.5″ opening? I would like to match this face to the drawer stack at left of peninsula.2. Upper Corner
Checking dimensions due to the deeper base. Planned 26″ width and depth. Would return be better as 12″ or 14″? or possibly split the diff and make it 13″?3. Glass video is great. You are everywhere! Do you have a recommended glass thickness to fit the routed edge and slots? I am looking at some patterned/textured options and don’t want to end up too thick.
Everything else super clear. Thanks again. Really look forward to getting this cabinet order in as it is rate limiting step!
Cheers
Meant to include view from dining room. This lower framed wall will back to peninsula with counter extending across the top of both.
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Super helpful Chad, thanks.
Couple follow ups to nail this section down (forgive me I am now in the “analysis paralysis” stage of planning!)1. Realized my cutout for HMC54151UC is 22″ minimum, so cabinet needs to be at least 22 3/4″. For an inch it may be simpler to just bring everything to a 24″ depth and call it a day. If I went that route, how best to finish the pantry side? Seems a WFE may work between base and wall units but then counter does not run full width of the drawer. I could run it from the base to bottom of wall unit but that will be ~50″ (longer than the tallest BFE option).
2. How tall are the back support rails in WAPPLIANCECASE? It looks like they may interfere with the outlet area. Possibly another reason for me to go with the full 24″ depth for some breathing room. Any other work arounds?
3. For the upper unit, are you able to offer W2DTRAYDIVIDER with the Aventos flip up door of W1DFLIPUPAVENTOSHKXS? Likely we will do some large pans either over the microwave or fridge – watch this space for a post re that wall 🙂
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Also, while I’m at it, couple questions re this layout.
Currently I have:
– 24″ deep pullout pantry
– 23″ deep base (slightly shallower to allow counter to terminate into side of pantry)
– 22″ deep upper (minimum needed for microwave and slightly shallower as trying to make lower counter slightly more usable for coffee or whatnot)Questions:
1. Are the different depths kinda dumb? lol. It doesn’t really gain much and then becomes a bit choppy plus also seems to require a mostly covered TFE?
2. Is the counter with full depth wall cabinet above it dumb?
3. Is there a simpler way of finishing off the pantry side or does it require floor to ceiling TFE in any case?That wall is 4′ so I could also just do full cabinets as 3x 15″ columns.
Many thanks
