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Yes, I have just added the option to have the toe kick ordered in a flush configuration.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/thafeletallpullout.htm
Our cabinets are built with 3/4″ thick plywood for all cabinet cases. When placed side by side, that’s 1.5″ of solid plywood resting on your floor. These cabinets are likely stronger than the structure beneath them, so stack whatever you want on top, they’ll hold just fine.
Always use a 2″ wide filler between the wall and the cabinets. This creates a clean, professional transition, compensates for uneven walls, and ensures that drawer fronts clear any nearby trim, door casing, or millwork.
Cabinet height always includes the toe kick. For example, if you order a cabinet at 20″ tall, that measurement includes the height of the toe kick.
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Sure, the shelves sit back into the cabinet by about 21″. So there will always be a bit of wasted space there as the shelves depths cannot be made deeper. See here for pics.
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The back panel should be the same height as the other parts of the hood enclosure cabinet. It was likely cut incorrectly due to human error during order processing, apologies for that. We can send a replacement part if needed, but if you plan to use the existing piece, it’s fine to leave a gap at the top.
Customer service can assist with any design-specific questions you may have. Please reach out to info@citycabinets.com.
That said, as long as you follow the three guidelines below, your order should go smoothly. In general: use finished end panels on exposed cabinet sides, fillers where cabinets meet walls, and toe skins and crown molding to complete the look.
Finished End Panels
Apply finished ends to the exposed sides of cabinets. These panels cover screw holes and provide a clean, professional appearance.Fillers at Walls
Use a minimum 2″ wide filler between cabinets and walls. This allows for walls that may be out of square and ensures drawers and doors open properly without rubbing.Toe Skins and Crown Molding
Toe skins cover the toe kick area, creating the appearance of a continuous cabinet run. Crown molding and other optional trim pieces can be added to enhance the final look of your project.Easiest way to add one in would be to simply order our standalone rollout product via barkerdoor.com. This mounts down to the deck of the cabinet. Same materials and slides.
https://www.barkerdoor.com/product-p/rolloutblumotionv2.htm
You could also order each part separately to have it mount to the interior walls, but there is more calculations needed to get the correct size. We carry the spacer blocks and slides here:
https://www.barkerdoor.com/Blum-Tandem-Plus-Blumotion-Drawer-Guides-s/118.htmThe cabinets and doors are built as a single unit with very tight reveals, so getting the correct door sizes without a template is extremely difficult. The doors must be cut to precise dimensions and drilled specifically for the intended hinges. For this reason, we do not offer the cabinet without doors. However, you can order the cabinet with an inexpensive door style and material, then use that as a template for your new custom doors.
It’s best to order a sample and match your color to it to ensure the most accurate result. For City Cabinets, we use a Sherwin-Williams Gallery paint and primer combination. I will grab a photo of the label on the actual paint, then post those pics here for future reference.
You can do it either way as there’s no set standard.
There are benefits to running a separate toe kick underneath the bar back. This allows you to add a toe skin and a strip of shoe molding, which helps the molding conform better to uneven flooring. It also tends to be more durable since the toe skin can absorb wear and tear from sweeping or, heaven forbid, mopping close to the island. Over a 20–30 year lifespan, this setup may result in less visible damage compared to a full-height bar back that touches the floor directly.
On the other hand, I believe a full-height bar back gives the island a more custom, polished look, especially when finished with base molding around the back. You can run it full height, add base molding, and then a strip of shoe molding to give it some added dimension. That’s how I did mine. The corners are a bit of a toe-stubbing hazard, but I prefer the look overall and I’m happy with the appearance.
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Unfortunately, we do not offer single or double pocketing doors. The hardware is notoriously difficult to install and tends to fail over time, so we’ve chosen not to include it in our product line.
At this time, your options are limited to lift-up doors or standard wall cabinets with traditional side-hinged doors. Alternatively, you could order an exposed cabinet and separate doors, then modify them on-site to work with custom pocket door hardware but that route typically creates more complications than it’s worth.
Overall, pocket doors have proven to be problematic in both production and installation. We’re always on the lookout for better, simpler hardware solutions, but older options like tambour doors from the ’80s and ’90s—were also plagued with reliability issues.
If it’s a wall-to-wall installation, you’ll need fillers on each side. We recommend using a 2″ wide filler wherever cabinets meet a wall. You can then apply scribe molding to the face of the fillers to cover any irregular gaps where the filler meets the drywall. This creates a clean, professional transition from cabinets to wall.
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I wil have Clayton find and reply to your email. Changes should not be an issue so long as we are a few days form the order being submitted. Changes after 3 business days would cause issues.
