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Wall to wall cabinets with tall cabinet on each end, low window in between
Space is approximately 125.5 inch wall to wall, as below:
Height from floor to bottom of window trim is 33″, to bottom of window sill with moulding removed is 36″. Leaves a finished painted sill.
Finished window is 2’11.25″ wide.
Wall to left window edge is 48.25″, wall to right window edge is 42.25″.
Ceiling height just under 10′ tall due to floor thickness.ALL cabs 24″ depth.
Thinking of run of 34.5″ base double drawers at bottom, left to right as follows:
42″,22″,22″ and 36″. This will keep window centered over the 22″ cabs. Total run 122″, so need about 3.5-3.75″ spacing which I’d divide 50/50.
On top of the 42″ base cabinet, 2 21″ wide 76.5″ tall cabinets (no toe kick), one hinged on left by the wall and one hinged on the right next to window with bottom 2 shelves as sliding shelves.
Similarly, on top of 36″ base cabinet one 36″ double door 76.5″ tall cabinet with no toe kick and bottom two sliding shelves.
How wide do doors need to open for sliding shelves to work?
On top of all, 9″ moulding to ceiling.
Will need 2 90″ toe skins, where should seam be? at seam between 22″ cabs. Also base shoe to cover bottom of toe skins, same question about seam.
I assume I’d get 2 76.5″ 2″ wide spacers and two 30.5″ 2″ wide spacers for lower cabs to toe kick level. Trim existing 5-6″ baseboard to fit. How do you fill the hole left where toe kick ends? Miter pieces of filler? How much extra 2″ filler should I buy?
Will need two 76.5″ tall finished ends, one for each tall cabinet exposed side. Not sure what thickness to use or what exact depth to use to not impede opening cabinet doors.
Also need finished top over the 2 22″ cabinets. Should this abut or run underneath the side finished ends? Should this overhang the 22″ cabinets? This will NOT be a work space so won’t get wet. If run under the finished sides tall cabinets, then 44″ wide I think and if abutting them, reduce by the combined thickness of the side finished ends??
Length of crown moulding is about 130″, not going to go between the tall cabinets over window, just front and sides of tall cabinet tops, so 2 90″ lengths of 9″ moulding should be adequate.
Also, how much scribe should I buy? And where should it be placed?
I’m new to all of this and could use some advice to avoid as much as possible inevitable mistakes.
Keith
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18 Replies
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I’ve figured out some answers, I’ll go without a recessed toe kick on base cabs as these are really more for storage of food and kitchen items.
Still don’t know best way to handle finished sides and top. Which goes over which. 45 degree miter? Best size for those? Best thickness for finished sides?
Is total of 3 1/2″ of spacer enough–divided about 50/50 between cab run and walls? So about 1 3/4″ on each side.
Where to place toe skin seam and base shoe seam? Probably at seam dividing the two center 22″ cabs?
Where to place scribe and how much needed?
Advice? Warnings?
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Sure, when finishing the sides of the cabinets and covering the visible construction holes, we always recommend using a 3/4″ thick finished end panel. We also offer a 1.5″ thick plywood end panel, but that thickness is typically only necessary for island applications.
Finished countertops should overhang the finished end panels by approximately 1–2″. Refer to the image below for a visual guide on how we recommend installing them.
Scribe and shoe molding are extremely useful for tying cabinets cleanly into the walls. Both are inexpensive and make the project look more professional, so we always suggest ordering more than enough to use on all fillers and toe-kick areas.
Seams can be placed wherever you prefer. Any run longer than 90″ will require at least one seam. If the material is painted, you may fill and paint the seam if desired, but doing so is not required. Ideally, locate seams in low-visibility areas, where they’re least noticeable at eye level.
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Thanks Chad. So finished side from tall cabinets, to the top of base cabinet drawers or to the floor (no toe kick)? If to the floor, make base drawer cabinets slightly narrower?
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You can do it either way, but I would personally run the finished end panel from a 4″ elevation up to the top of the wall cabinet stacked on the tall cabinet. I no longer run finished end panels full height to the floor, as they tend to get abused during regular cleaning, and it is easy to stub your toes when the panel hangs too low.
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Again, Chad…Thank you
I like the look of the drawers slightly recessed. If we went with 22″ depth 2 drawer base cabinets, could we have 20″ drawer box?
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Sure, at 22″ you would get a 18″ deep drawer box. See here for a chart:
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On BarkerDoor website drawers seem to come in 1″ depth increments. Is it possible to have 20″ depth in 22″ cabinets instead of 18″? Or does that mess up hardware slides etc?
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All drawer interiors across our product lines are built in 1″ depth increments. The limiting factor is the Blum drawer slides, which are only available in 3″ depth increments.
For example, a 22″ deep cabinet cannot use a 21″ slide. The slides themselves are slightly longer than the drawer box, approximately 3/4″ longer, because of the rear locking pins that prevent the drawer front from tipping forward. Slides come in at 15″, 18″, 21″, 24″, etc.
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So can you use 18″ Blum slide with 20″ drawer…and just not have it pull completely out?
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No, the slide length and drawer depth must match.
In theory, you could install shorter slides set back approximately 2″ inside the cabinet and then attach a deeper drawer box. However, that is not how the slides are designed to function, and it’s not something we can offer or support.
For a 22″ deep cabinet, the deepest option would be 18″ slides paired with 18″ deep drawer boxes.
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Thanks, Chad.
I’m trying to get my questions answered before ordering.
Glass from cabinet, as below: What would door look like?
2 glass door wall cabinet (interior will the match wood type and finish chosen for the face of the cabinet)
[WIDTH:42.00″][HEIGHT:19.50″][DEPTH:24.00″][Door/Drawer Front Style:Oregon Raised Panel][Door/Drawer Front Wood Type:Alder (premium select)][Grid Glass:standard glass door][Door/Drawer Front Prefinishing:ESPRESSO (custom dark stain)][Cabinet Case Material:wood species will match “Wood Type” and “Finish” chosen above] -
Sure, the cabinet and door profiles will look like these images. Note Espresso is not shown.
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For 74″ tall pantry cabinet, how many fixed shelves if I order 4 roll out shelves vs 3 vs 2 rollout shelves. Approximate height from ground for rollout shelves. Wife is 5’2″ so high rollout shelves aren’t helpful.
How far horizontally does the 4″ Portland crown molding extend?
What is minimal clearance between wall and pantry double door cabinet for the rollout out shelves to clear? Our current layout is 1 3/4″.
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Sure, please see the attached for an example of how rollouts are typically laid out in a 74″ tall pantry. This can vary slightly depending on who is completing the layout in our office, but this is a close representation of what you can expect. We do our best to evenly distribute the spacing between shelves and rollouts for a balanced, functional layout.
If you are looking at the Portland Crown that is about 4″ tall, then that crown is about 3.25″ deep from front to back. See attached.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/mportlandcrown4.htm
https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/mportlandcrown4backer4.htmAs long as the pantry doors can open to 90 degrees, the rollouts will operate properly and clear the doors without issue. Including a 2″ wide filler between the wall and the pantry provides added flexibility and ensures the doors can open fully to 90 degrees.
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This reply was modified 6 months, 1 week ago by
Chad.
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This reply was modified 6 months, 1 week ago by
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Chad, looks good. Can we do 74″ tall pantry with 4 rollout shelves and one fixed shelf at the top?
