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We have a 7″ pullout shelf in the showroom, and I’ll attach a photo showing the thickness of the side rails. The total shelf width is about 5″, which results in approximately 4.5″ of usable interior space between the rails. By the same logic, a 6″ wide cabinet case would yield a 4″ wide shelf, with about 3.5″ of usable interior shelf space.
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On that island, we used two separate base moldings to create the protruded look, where the face of the base molding extends further forward than the cabinet doors. To achieve this, you would order all base cabinets with a flush toe kick, then apply a 4″ or 6″ tall Shaker base molding (we used 6″ on that island). This builds out the toe kick so it sits just behind the face of the cabinet doors. Finally, the Portland base molding is applied to the front of the Shaker base molding.
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A 26″ depth allows the countertop to properly terminate into the side of the finished end panel. We made this the standard to avoid having a small, awkward-looking piece of countertop sticking out in the kitchen.
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All slab plywood doors will have a square edge, essentially like the second picture you provided. The first picture you uploaded is simply a wood sample we made some time ago to showcase grain and color tones. We do not offer solid wood slab doors, as they are difficult to work with and prone to failure over time.
I recommend going to Sherwin-Williams and picking up a gallon of Gallery clearcoat in a 20 sheen. This is an almost exact match to the clearcoat we use on our doors (we use their industrial version of SW gallery, but it is the exact same formula from what I can tell) . Gallery is designed to be sprayed, so it’s not recommended for wiping or brushing. However, by using this material, you’ll have the ability to refinish the doors whenever needed.
We do not offer a dedicated product for exposed open shelves, but you can achieve this by using a 1.5″ thick finished end panel turned on its side.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/wfethick.htm
See the attached image for a reference showing the default number of shelves included with each cabinet. The quantity varies depending on the cabinet height.
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No, that picture shows a shaped outside edge detail that was added to a solid wood sample a long time ago. Our slab plywood doors have a square outside edge. On Barker Modern, the doors also feature a square outside edge, banded with matching veneer to align with the cabinet face.
Please note, we do not offer solid wood slab doors in any of our cabinet lines, as they are prone to warping, bowing, and splitting over time. Our cabinets are designed to last, which is why we use plywood for slab doors in the Barker Cabinets line and premium Italian and Spanish laminates (PBC core) in the Barker Modern line.
I would avoid using a filler in that spot and instead caulk it to the wall. Adding a filler will create an awkward seam where it meets the cabinet face.
The wall cabinet itself is structurally sound for a 26″ span and will not have any issues. The main concern is screw strength into the wall studs when supporting a heavy load inside the cabinet. I recommend adding a solid wood cleat to the left wall near the face of the wall cabinet, and you can also secure it to the tall end panel on the right for additional support, as that panel will be anchored to the base cabinets below. Overall, this installation method is common and should not present any problems.
Conversion varnish paints can be more difficult to touch up due to the chemistry of the coating. In most cases, we recommend taking a door to your local paint supplier and having them mix a lacquer-based paint that is color-matched to the door you want to repair. This will provide the best and closest match possible.
The only time wood grain will show through the paint is on white oak and red oak, with a slight chance on sapele. All other wood species are tight-grained enough that the paint will create a smooth finish.
For painted products, I generally recommend maple paint grade since it offers greater resistance to dents and dings.
On flat inset panel doors (such as Shaker, Westminster, etc.), the panel will be a matching wood veneer over an HDF core. For raised panel doors (like Windsor or Seattle), the panel will be solid wood, as the shaping process requires a solid material to achieve the selected profile.
Yeah, I hear you on this with kids especially from personal experience. We do not have a preferred product, but I have seen various liner products at Home Depot and Costco on occasion.
For a flush toe kick, you’ll need base molding for the face. Base molding has a finished top edge, so the core will not be visible. View base molding options here:
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Base-Molding-s/69.htmA 46″ shelf is fairly wide, so some sagging may occur over time. Many customers simply flip the shelf occasionally to even out any sag. If you plan to store heavier items, consider ordering an additional shelf and doubling them up for a total thickness of 1.5″. Since these shelves are made from ¾” plywood, they are already quite stiff.
