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Hi Chad! Love your cabinets and appreciate you on these forums. I’m designing kitchen cabinets. In the post:
It says the TFE should be 26-5/8″ deep but the wall cabinet should be only 26″ deep.
In my case, I am building a fridge enclosure that calls for an opening with 36″ width, 71-1/4″ height, 26-3/4″ depth (includes 2″ clearance behind fridge per manufacturer.) I have 9′ ceilings. The fridge is the start of the cabinets and is adjacent to a 2.5′ deep floor to ceiling wall. My plan was the zero clearance fridge goes right up against the wall. Alternatively, place a vertical wood filler between wall and fridge. Hang upper wall cabinets across the top of the fridge, and run a TFE on the side, crown moulding to touch the ceiling. Tops of cabinets and TFE should be 4″ lower than the ceiling so I’ve got the height, and the width, but if I am doing crown moulding and I want the TFE 26-3/4″ deep, shouldn’t the wall cabinets also be 26-3/4″ deep?
Also, what do you recommend using to keep the bases off the concrete? Composite shims? My finished floor is 5/8″ off the concrete but I did not floor under the cabinets, only under the fridge, so was thinking of doing 5/8″ pine strips or composite shims to get bases level and off floor.
Thanks for any insight you have.
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(I will use a 5″ gap between the top of the TFE / cabs and the ceiling given the ceiling is 102-3/4″)
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The TFE (tall finished end panel) should be ordered deeper than the wall cabinets. Since the wall cabinet depth does not include the door thickness, you typically want the finished end panel to extend far enough to cover the side of the door for a more integrated, custom look.
You can certainly order the TFE at the same depth as the wall cabinet, but this leaves a 3/4″ step back, which generally does not look as good from a design perspective. See the attached image for a visual and additional explanation.
I would recommend using at least a 2″ wide full-height tall filler between your refrigerator opening and the wall. It is nice to have a bit of space there rather than placing the refrigerator directly against the wall, even if the refrigerator has hinges designed for tight installations. You want to be able to open the refrigerator door a full 90 degrees to access the interior comfortably, and the filler is a small price to pay for that peace of mind.
If you need a 5/8″ gap underneath, I would simply use pressure-treated 5/8″ plywood cut into strips to build the cabinets up off the concrete. You could probably use regular plywood or even shims, but that would require a large number of shims, whereas plywood strips will do the job faster and more cheaply. Using pressure-treated plywood is wise in this situation, as it helps prevent moisture from wicking into the cabinet cases.
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