There is no need to use a separate cabinet to house a refrigerator. That refrigerator case is for very specific models that require venting and a dedicated opening. If you have a regular 36″ tall refrigerator, simply create a 37″ wide by 72″ tall opening like this:

Subject: Order Inquiry: Custom Cabinet Boxes, Face Frames, and Hidden Storage for Sub-Zero Integration

​To the Barker Doors Team,
​I am performing a complete kitchen refacing and modification project using shaker-style, full-overlay doors and drawer fronts. I am reaching out to coordinate the order for several custom cabinet boxes and filler components required for a 36″ Sub-Zero Classic (top-vented) integration and a height extension for my existing layout.

​1. Sub-Zero Integration & Right-Hand Corner Assembly
​I am installing a 36″ Sub-Zero into a current 46″ \times 72″ opening. To achieve a professional built-in look, I need the following:
​Over-Fridge Box: I am replacing two existing 36″w \times 12″h \times 12″d cabinets with a single double-door box measuring 46″w \times 12″h \times 24″d. I would like this to be a shaker-style glass door display cabinet.
​Right-Side “Hidden” Cabinet: To provide the necessary door swing clearance in a right-hand corner, I need a narrow 6″w \times 72″h \times 24″d cabinet.
​Design Query: Is it feasible to manufacture this as a “hidden door” cabinet using a push-to-release magnetic latch, so the face appears as a seamless 7″ filler piece but functions as a broom/ladder closet? If not, please advise on the best filler-strip configuration to match.

​2. Left-Side Integration & Panel Work
​The left side of the refrigerator and upper cabinet assembly butts against an existing granite countertop.
​Base Configuration: I have a 12″w \times 24″d base cabinet (2 doors) at this junction.
​Paneling/Trim: What specific side panels and trim pieces do you recommend to wrap this transition so the refrigerator gable and the base cabinet look like a single, professional unit?

​3. Refrigerator-Left Upper Replacement
​I am replacing the existing 24″w \times 30″h \times 12″d upper cabinet to the left of the fridge with:
​Primary Cabinet: A 24″w \times 42″h \times 16″d box.
​Stacked Display: A 24″w \times 12″h \times 16″d glass door display cabinet to sit directly above it.

​4. Kitchen-Wide Height Extension
​My current cabinets sit at 84″h, and I have 10′ ceilings. I intend to add 12″h display cabinets on top of all existing boxes across the kitchen.
​How do you recommend attaching these to existing face-frame boxes to ensure the seam is invisible once painted with my shaker-style refacing components?
​I have a detailed hardware list including Blum soft-close hinges and heavy-duty slides for my wider pan drawers elsewhere in the project. I look forward to your guidance on the trim and the “hidden” cabinet feasibility so I can finalize my cut list.

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by ChadBarker.

1. Sure, you can use push-to-open hardware to make the cabinet doors above your refrigerator into a hidden door area. You can buy this type of hardware from various vendors, and there are a few different installation options.

I prefer the surface-mount piston style, so you are not stuck trying to drill deep holes into the face of your cabinet case. I took a quick look through the current brochure and grabbed a screenshot that I will attach.

2. We would use a tall finished end panel ordered at full height to create the transition from the granite countertop to the refrigerator enclosure area. An example would be the previous picture I posted in one of my earlier replies.

4. It sounds like you are adding a row of cabinets to tie the existing cabinets to the ceiling. This is a common route when adding to a residential stock kitchen from a large builder that uses standardized kitchen packages and does not allow customization. Bringing those cabinets to the ceiling is going to make the kitchen look more grand.

Honestly, it sounds like you have face-frame-style cabinets on site. I would personally go to Home Depot and buy the parts needed to mimic the exact same face frame widths as the cabinets below. Trying to mix one of our frameless cabinets with face-frame-style cabinets on site is not going to look correct. At the very least, I would be able to tell they were pieced together with mismatched construction methods once viewing the completed project.

Build the face frames and box, then order doors from BarkerDoor.com to integrate them into the overall kitchen. This will look better, but it requires much more work and may even cost more by the time it is finished. That is the reason custom refacing is really an art of its own.