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Hello,
We have kitchen drain as shown in the attached image. We are thinking of having a base corner 45 and potentially a 3 drawer cabinet – [ B45 | B3DR | SINK ]. With regards to this the questions I have are:
1) The cabinets would be 24 in deep. The drain pipe is about 2.5 in from the wall. Would the drawers have a depth of 21 in, such that they are not obstructed by the drain pipe?
2) As the drain pipe run across cabinets [ 45 base corner | 3 drawer base | 2 door sink ], we would need to create cut-outs in the side walls of the cabinets. Would this be ok? (Please see attached picture for the cross section view of one of the walls.)
3) What is the size of the opening of a 34.5 in x 34 in x 24 in x 24 in 45 deg. base cabinet?Thank you!
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1. How high off the floor is the drain pipe? In theory, you could run the drain pipe underneath the cabinets. There is a 4 inch space below the cabinet boxes that is not used structurally, so it functions as a void that can be utilized if needed. Most black ABS drain pipe is approximately 2 inches in diameter, so clearance should not be an issue.
2. Yes, you will be cutting into the rear of the UER or UEL cabinet sides. That is perfectly acceptable. You can remove material from those areas as needed, provided you shim the cabinets properly in a few locations to maintain adequate countertop support. The cabinet sides are 3/4 inch thick. When cabinets are installed side by side, you effectively have 1 1/2 inches of solid plywood. Even with material removed for the pipe, the structure will remain more than strong enough to support a heavy load.
3. Refer to the attached CAD image for a top view. A 34 inch by 34 inch Base 45 cabinet with 24 inch returns will provide approximately a 13 1/8 inch door opening behind that door. The hinges will slightly reduce usable clearance, but this gives you a general idea of the available space.
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The drain is 6 inches above the bottom of current base cabinet. That would make it about 10 in above the floor. So, doesn’t look it could be concealed. The outer edge of this pipe is 3 in from the wall. So, I am concerned that will obstruct a drawer. Having a B3DR here would be great but considering the measurements is it possible to reduce the depth of the lower most drawer?
Thank you for the dimension on the opening of a B45 corner cabinet. Effective opening being very close to 13 in appears narrow. Would a 36 in. B45 provide an effective opening around 15 in. or so?
We also have a soffit, which reduces the ceiling height to 88.72 in. In our design we have 34.5 in (base cabinet) + 19.5 + 30 in (wall cabinet) = 84 in, leaving 4 in for crown molding. This is creating an issue for the cabinet which is above the refrigerator. The high point of the refrigerator is 72 in, making the cabinet 12 in, which is the minimum height of the wall cabinet. Can flat crown molding be cut down to 3 in, such that 73 in + 12 in + 3 in = 88 in. ?
We have two wall W45 cabinets in our design. Can flat crown molding be used for these cabinets?
Thank you
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Sure, you can request that the bottom drawer on that one cabinet be reduced in depth by 3″ or even 6″ to be safe. That is not an issue.
Disclaimer: limited changes via the order notes are fine. One or two requests here and there are totally acceptable. However, long lists modifying every cabinet on the entire order would be rejected. We do make these cabinets custom, but we still need to keep production moving. Modifying every cabinet on an order limits our ability to manufacture efficiently, so just keep that in mind.
Without seeing it in person, I might personally consider simply cutting the drain pipe with a sawzall, buying some new ABS pipe and glue, and rerouting it around the new cabinets. That is likely easier since the drain was probably added after the OG cabinets were originally installed. Rerouting it would likely take about 30 minutes, but I understand that approach is a bit more involved and intrusive than simply working around it.
Yes, flat crown can absolutely be cut down or even scribed to the ceiling if needed. The minimum height you can order that flat crown is 2″, and it can go all the way up to 6″ tall.
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/mflatcrown.htm
Flat crown molding is very versatile and works well in these situations. If you only have about 12″ of space above the refrigerator, and the refrigerator opening is likely around 36″ wide, a flip-up door cabinet might be a better fit. The door can be ordered with the Aventos HK-XS lift arm, which holds the door in the open position for easier access.
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/w1dflipupaventoshkxs.htm
Flat crown is commonly used on cabinets regardless of design. It is the most simple and streamlined crown molding and does a nice job tying the cabinets into the ceiling without adding a more decorative crown such as Shaker or Portland styles.
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With reference to: “In this case, I would simply route it inside the cabinet by notching the cabinet backs and sliding the cabinets over the pipe. That’s a pretty common solution and not a big deal. You can also request that the lower drawer be reduced to around 15″ (or whatever dimension is needed) to accommodate the pipe. That part is easy to adjust.”
1) When we put in the order, how do I reference a particular cabinet that needs something special to be done – Do we use a “Notes (room ID or custom tag)” as the cabinet identifier ?
With respect to B3DR that will be situated here we were planning to use it in the Staggered configuration (t: 5 7/8, b: 14, m: balance.) However, a more ideal configuration would be a Staggered like but a swap of Middle and Bottom (t: 5 7/8″, m: 14″, b: balance).
1) Would such a configuration for B3DR be possible?
2) This configuration appears to be functionally very optimal for our situation but would it create any issues in operation ?
3) Would such a configuration look unbalanced?Thank you!
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To request a change to the drawer box depth for that cabinet, simply include the request in the notes field at checkout, on the screen where you enter your credit card. Keep the notes brief, as too many details can complicate order processing.
Personally, I think that configuration may look unbalanced. We can attempt it as a custom request if you would like, but I recommend sticking with the standard options to keep things simple.
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Ok. Thank you for the rendering. We will go with the recommendation of going with the standard staggered option.
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I have attached a couple pictures. One of them (pipe.jpg) shows its current state. I don’t think it is the plastic ABS kind. It goes through the wall into the stucco and is accessible on the exterior when the sink gets clogged. I have also attached a rendering of my design in this section that shows the B45|B3DR|SINK2D.
Thank you for the suggesting an alternate cabinet to be used above the fridge. I will definitely consider it. Would a crown molding between 2in and 2in provide the door sufficient clearance for the door to open up? When using a cabinet above the fridge if the depth is 12 in how does it get attached to the rear wall?
The crown molding that is observed in the rendering is C or U shaped. I thought I had read in the description that it would be a linear strip. How exactly would be sold/delivered?
Thank you
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Yeah, it looks like black ABS plastic that was probably covered in primer and paint during the previous renovation. Since it exits straight through the back wall, there really isn’t any practical way to drop the elevation without creating a section of pipe where water would sit permanently, which obviously isn’t ideal.
In this case, I would simply route it inside the cabinet by notching the cabinet backs and sliding the cabinets over the pipe. That’s a pretty common solution and not a big deal. You can also request that the lower drawer be reduced to around 15″ (or whatever dimension is needed) to accommodate the pipe. That part is easy to adjust.
For the cabinet above your refrigerator, I would make that about 24–26″ deep and attach it directly to the rear wall studs. You probably have a soffit back behind that, so I get the idea of using a shallower depth cabinet, just attach or cleat up to the ceiling or adjacent cabinets as needed. We can also make that flip-up cabinet a bit shorter in height if needed. Normally 12″ is our minimum, but looking at your layout we could probably squeeze it down to about 10″ high.
9″ might work as well, but that gets very close to the hinge plate and arm clearance. If you want to adjust it slightly, you could request something like 11″ instead of 12″ in the order notes at checkout. Just be sure not to forget the note so the layout team sees it.
See the images below of the actual flat crown that is being shipped soon.
https://www.citycabinets.com/product-p/mflatcrown.htmAttachments:
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