stock cabinet adjustments

[BP]

A few questions about what can be adjusted on stock cabinets.

A. I saw in another post, and reflected in your order site, that W1D and W1DINTEGRATEDUCL minimum width had been reduced to 6 inch due to CNC tooling improvements. Will that same change apply to B1D which shows a 9 inch minimum vs the B1DSLIMV2? I am looking between 8 to 8.5 inch width base single-door and didn’t know if the difference could matter.

B. For a W1D, is there an option for a third set of adjustable shelf holes to be drilled in the center of the side panels? For example at 6.5″ from rear of a 13″ cabinet. We are look at adding a 4 inch spice rack on the back side of the door on an 7inch wide cabinet, but that would required the shelves to be half-depth. Like in this picture from our previous house which worked very well for a slim cabinet. I could DIY drill shelf pin holes if needed using a depth stop, but obviously factory CNC would be better.

C. For the W1D, W1DINTEGRATEDUCL, W2D, W2DINTEGRATEDUCL, W1DBLINDCORNERLEFTV2 and W2DBLINDCORNERLEFTV2 can you request via an order note to have glass-door vs wood panel construction for a Sapele veneer cabinet? This is for doors in the 12-16 inch wide range. We are going to get frosted glass panels and think that the light maple veneer interior would be acceptable or possibly better than darker interior. Plus lower cost.

D. For W1DBLINDCORNERLEFTV2, W2DBLINDCORNERLEFTV2, is there an Integrated UCL option planned? Alternate option could be to order a W2DINTEGRATEDUCL in the correct width and replace the left door with fillers + plywood panel to effectively covert to a blind cabinet.

and one assembly question

E. What is the recommended method to attach Finished End panels? Are they screwed on from the interior side of the cabinet end they are covering with screws that won’t poke through the veneer? and for Toe Kick, are those attached using adhesive?

thank you

-Brian

Attachments:

1. 

[ChadBarker]

a. The minimum width will not transfer over to the base cabinets, as those are ordered at much larger depths nearing 24″ in most cases. The issue is that the bottom is held by a CNC clamp at the banding, so the front edge is facing the ground in the CNC machine. The dado is on the back of the part, so that is about as far away from the clamp as possible.

When the dado is slotted, it is about 5 mm deep on each pass, and this applies pressure to the clamp that is trying to hold it near the bottom. So the machine is slotting on the top, roughly 24″ away from the clamp position where the part is being held. This becomes an issue because the leverage the dado blade puts on the clamp is more than the clamp can take, which shifts the part to the side and jams the saw blade into a full stop position.

This breaks the breakaway bearing for safety reasons and puts the CNC down for an extended period of time until we can have a tech come out and replace that bearing. Long story short, the wall cabinets are only about 12″ deep, so that is not an issue. Base cabinets are a bit more difficult.

Note that back in February, we had a few customers chime in complaining about a sloppy dado near the edge of the part. This is the exact same thing happening here. For that issue, the City line was more affected, as the plywood is more dense and tends to shift more because it is harder to saw through. Regardless, the issue was addressed by making the dado/back less deep into the part, which helped regulate the shifting of the parts and prevented the bearings from being shattered.

b. No, adding a third set of dados would not be something we can offer, as the system can already struggle with adding system holes. I would simply add the holes on site. A bit of work, but not too bad, as they sell jigs and bits that accommodate shelf hole drilling.

c. On Barker Cabinets, we currently do not support changing the door to a glass version directly when ordering on the website. City does allow this as a beta test since we launched recently. If you want a glass door on those cabinets, and understand that the interior will remain the prefinished maple plywood, then you can simply request this as a customization in the order notes at checkout.

d. I will add those to the site eventually. In the meantime, just request that those two blind corner cabinets be made with a “3/4″ bottom scribe.” My guys will know what to do.

e. Use 1.25″ long screws from the inside of the cabinet case to attach those end panels. Do not use glue, as this can cause issues and limit flexibility for future modifications.

For your toe skins, use pin nails, as you may wish to rip those out and replace them in the future. Do not use glue here either.

[Author]

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