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What are the inside corner clearance requirements (i.e., filler strips) to prevent doors and drawers from interfering? One side or both sides?
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For an inside corner, we recommend using a minimum 3″ wide filler on each side of the corner. This is the approach used on our blind corner cabinets, which feature an integrated, built-in 3″ filler, eliminating the need to piece together separate fillers to create a proper corner transition.
If you do not plan to use a blind corner base cabinet, a dead corner may be required. Dead corners can be used in tight spaces, but they do result in a loss of usable storage. In this scenario, we typically use a 4″ wide filler and a 3″ wide filler. The 4″ filler overlaps the edge of the 3″ filler, allowing the two fillers to be fastened together to form a clean corner transition with 3″ of exposed filler faces showing.
Please refer to the attached image for an example of this configuration.
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Thank you!
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Another corner condition.
See the attached sketch.This would be an island condition where the base cabinets extend down from the wall (at the top).
We would like to insert an open shelf unit at the inside corner open on the right (opposite the cabinets below).
Can you do this and what would the inside corner condition look like (dimensionally)? -
Sure, that is essentially the same approach as the example I will include as a photo attachment here. Instead of a one-door cabinet, you would simply swap that cabinet for an exposed interior cabinet with open shelves. This is a simple and flexible solution that provides easy access from the backside of the peninsula.
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for glazed cabinet doors, can you make the door frames with division bars (horizontal and or vertical) so there are separate pieces of glass, not one large sheet? Think old school windows with muntin bars…… ???
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Yes, these are called the Grid Glass option.
You will see a Grid Glass dropdown option available on all glass door cabinets.
Example:
https://www.barkercabinets.com/2-glass-door-wall-cabinet-p/w2dglass.htmAttachments:
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Sure, we actually have two products that will work for just this instance. See here for the one that actually look just like you have drawn:
https://www.barkercabinets.com/Base-Finished-End-Panel-SLAB-WIDE-STILE-p/bfewide.htmSee here for the newer 1.5″ thick solid plywood version that will work just as well and be a bit more durable.
https://www.barkercabinets.com/product-p/bfethick.htmNote that you can ordered these easily at 38″ depth as needed.
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Great.
I assume that the applied finished panels can be shaker style that match the doors…..??
More questions:
I assume that the under cabinet valance you offer to conceal light fixtures can be provided with end returns for cabinets with finished ends?
How do you typically attach finished end panels? -
We do not offer a wide version that includes a panelized shaker. To achieve this look, you would need to add an additional end panel next to the thick base slab end panel shown in the link. This will create a vertical seam on the face, but it will be minimal and not visually distracting.
No, the UCL molding should be miter-cut and installed into the back wall.
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Can you tell me the width of the stiles and rails on a shaker style door (wall cabinet if it matters).
Also the Width of the division bars (muntins) on a glazed door?
Thanks,
KL -
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Also, where cabinets abut a perpendicular wall, do you recommend a scribe strip, and if so, how wide?
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Hopefully my last question.
Do you need a dishwasher enclosure when you have a base cabinet on both sides? -
No, you can save 1.5″ of space by simply leaving a 24″ wide gap between two base cabinets. The only time an appliance case is needed to hold a dishwasher is when there are countertop support or structural requirements, such as at the end of a peninsula or an island, where additional support is necessary to keep the countertop secure.
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