Hafele Pantry Pull Out Extension Depth?

[djd]

How far does the pantry pull out extend? I cannot seem to find this on Hafele’s site anywhere.

I have a radiator that sits ~45″ off the corner wall where I’d like to put the pantry. 24″ depth cabinet + prob 21″ or more of pull out may be tight.

The other option may be to just do a single door 18″ wide pantry with rollouts. Door would have sufficient clearance, but guess the same question would apply to the roll out extension.

Thanks

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[djd]

Also, while I’m at it, couple questions re this layout.

Currently I have:
– 24″ deep pullout pantry
– 23″ deep base (slightly shallower to allow counter to terminate into side of pantry)
– 22″ deep upper (minimum needed for microwave and slightly shallower as trying to make lower counter slightly more usable for coffee or whatnot)

Questions:
1. Are the different depths kinda dumb? lol. It doesn’t really gain much and then becomes a bit choppy plus also seems to require a mostly covered TFE?
2. Is the counter with full depth wall cabinet above it dumb?
3. Is there a simpler way of finishing off the pantry side or does it require floor to ceiling TFE in any case?

That wall is 4′ so I could also just do full cabinets as 3x 15″ columns.

Many thanks

[ChadBarker]

When fully extended, the Hafele pullout pantry extends approximately 18 3/16″. See attached image. The benefit of the pantry is that you get full access to the rear of the unit. However, you do lose some storage depth behind it since the unit itself is only about 18″ deep. In a 24″–26″ deep tall cabinet, this results in a few inches of unused space at the back. In my opinion, rollouts make slightly better use of the full cabinet depth.

1. The varying depths make sense. It does not matter if the three areas are slightly different in depth. Each one is designed to suit its specific environment, so the form follows the function of the space. It will not look odd because it is custom built to fit your layout. Tight areas like this require customizations to the cabinet sizing to make it work correctly.

2. It is fine and adds function to the area. Yes, the countertop workspace below will be slightly obstructed from view, but you still retain usable workspace and it will function well.

3. In your case, the full height TFE is the cleanest solution. You could break it into multiple panels, but that would introduce seams and may draw attention to minor imperfections.

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[djd]

Super helpful Chad, thanks.
Couple follow ups to nail this section down (forgive me I am now in the “analysis paralysis” stage of planning!)

1. Realized my cutout for HMC54151UC is 22″ minimum, so cabinet needs to be at least 22 3/4″. For an inch it may be simpler to just bring everything to a 24″ depth and call it a day. If I went that route, how best to finish the pantry side? Seems a WFE may work between base and wall units but then counter does not run full width of the drawer. I could run it from the base to bottom of wall unit but that will be ~50″ (longer than the tallest BFE option).

2. How tall are the back support rails in WAPPLIANCECASE? It looks like they may interfere with the outlet area. Possibly another reason for me to go with the full 24″ depth for some breathing room. Any other work arounds?

3. For the upper unit, are you able to offer W2DTRAYDIVIDER with the Aventos flip up door of W1DFLIPUPAVENTOSHKXS? Likely we will do some large pans either over the microwave or fridge – watch this space for a post re that wall 🙂

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[ChadBarker]

1. Tall Finished End Panels

Any finished end panel over 48″ tall is considered a tall finished end panel. Tall end panels are oversized, so they do not come with finished top and bottom edges with edge banding like wall and base finished end panels. You can certainly order a 50″ tall end panel, but it must be ordered specifically as a tall end panel.

https://www.barkercabinets.com/Kitchen-Tall-Cabinet-Finshed-End-Panels-s/103.htm

As mentioned previously, the standard approach would be to use a 26″ deep tall cabinet with a 26-5/8″ deep finished end panel covering the entire side of the pantry cabinet stack. This allows the countertop to terminate cleanly into the side of the tall end panel. It also creates a proper transition from the 26-5/8″ deep tall end panel to the 24″ deep wall cabinet holding the oven, leaving a slight step-back that keeps a portion of the tall end panel visible.

Below that point, the countertop terminates into the side of the tall end panel without leaving a small exposed countertop “nub” that would otherwise require a finished edge on that little piece of countertop left exposed. These exposed countertop returns can sometimes draw the eye and look awkward, so the tall end panel approach avoids that issue and is very common.

If you prefer to run everything at 24″ depth along that entire wall, that is also acceptable. In that case, the countertop return will extend slightly past the cabinet face, and the finished end panel will need to be addressed accordingly. If I were doing it this way, I would personally run the finished end panel from the top of the base cabinet to the underside of the wall cabinet, as you have shown. It will look good either way. It will simply have a more custom appearance, which is often desirable.

2. Appliance Case Dimensions

Please see the attached image for the side view of the appliance case, including all relevant dimensions.

3. Tray Divider with Lift-Up Door

The tray divider option is not available when using a lift-up door. The lift-up door hardware mounting locations can interfere with the tray divider components, so this configuration is not offered.

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[djd]

One more detail here Chad.

Some of the microwave combi oven’s call for ventilation up the back wall. Contemplating cutting a slot out of the top of the microwave cabinet and decreasing the depth of the cabinet overtop of it to give a channel up the back.

Would it be feasible to:
1. Cut ~1″ x 18″ out of the top microwave cabinet near back support rail (leaving support rail intact which seems to attach to sides).
2. Space the overhead cabinet off the wall w/ vertical 2×4 or similar to provide an air gap to top of cabinets?

[ChadBarker]

The 2×4 method is likely easier and honestly less work overall. Just make sure the wall oven actually requires that ventilation clearance.

Adding space behind the unit is much simpler than cutting into the cabinet and modifying it in a way that ends up looking like a Frankenstein mess when you open the doors.

[Author]

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