farmhouse sink with trash pullout?

[robin]

Is there any way to combine:
“2 door 1 false front SINK base cabinet with TRASH ROLLOUT on left side”
with “2 door farm sink base cabinet”??

I’m looking at a 33-inch wide, 8inch tall apron front sink, that I want to put in a 36″ wide cabinet. ( this sink )
Am i correct in understanding that an apron-front sink needs the “Farm-sink base cabinet”? (I dont think it needs to sit on a shelf)

Within the farmhouse sink framing, is there a height of the sink opening that is otherwise compatible with the trash rollout?

Is there any other way to achieve a trash rollout under a farmstyle/apron front sink?
Is there anything else compatible with an apron front sink?

[ChadBarker]

Having an integrated trash pullout inside a farm sink cabinet is not available. The issue is that a farm sink cabinet is not a static-width cabinet like a regular undermount sink base.

A standard 36″ sink base cabinet can accommodate about 90% of all sinks on the market. However, farm sinks are different — they require the cabinet to match the exact width of the sink itself. Because of that, we can’t build a dedicated trash-pullout version that fits all sizes consistently.

If you’d like a trash pullout in a farm sink cabinet, it can be done as a custom on-site modification, though it won’t be as seamless as the integrated sink/trash combo available for undermount sinks.

Best workaround:

Order your farm sink cabinet at the required width.

Then, order the separate trash pullout from BarkerDoor.com, this is the same unit used in our standard sink/trash-pullout cabinet.

The farm sink cabinet should be at least 36″ wide. Anything narrower, and the pullout will occupy too much of the door opening.

Simply leave the hinges off on the side where the pullout will go. Mount the aftermarket trash rollout to the cabinet floor/deck and attach it to the door as needed.

If your sink base is wider than 36″, you may need to add a small bracket (not included) to connect the rollout mechanism to the door for proper alignment.

This setup is relatively simple and can be added later if you decide you want it in the future, since the trash rollout is a separate order and installs independently.

[robin]

sorry — apparently i was mistaken about the sink i (think i) want. it is an undermount sink with an apron front (rather than a farmhouse sink)
(dimensions picture attached)
So for that i asssume that i could use the 2-door apron sink base cabinet. Is this the correct selection? (especially the opening height)
2 door apron sink base cabinet (*sink not included)
[WIDTH:36″][HEIGHT:34.5″][DEPTH:24″][Opening Width:opening width= cabinet WIDTH minus 1 1/2″][Opening Height:8″][Opening Depth:opening depth= cabinet DEPTH]
IF i’m comparing that cabinet to the trash rollout cabinet, they look _pretty_ compatible depending on the height of the panel.
2 door 1 false front SINK base cabinet with TRASH ROLLOUT on left side
[WIDTH:36″][HEIGHT:34.5″][DEPTH:24″]
Can you provide complete dimensions for both cabinets? or is it still better to do the barkerdoor aftermarket pullout?

Also, and only slightly related, can you explain a little more about the plywood slab door options? Is there any way to do a slab door with NO veneer? that is, just the plywood itself sanded and either stained or clear coated (or primed)?Alternatively, if i select “paint grade” with the slab door, what do the “frame” and “panel” options mean? (frame =alder/panel = mdf) I basically just want to do something very simple and the plywood itself might be compatible with the industrial /artist’s loft vibe of the rest of the space, but i also want to avoid MDF.

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[ChadBarker]

An undermounted apron sink is installed essentially the same way as an undermounted farmhouse sink. A traditional farmhouse sink that isn’t undermounted will sit higher, leaving part of the sink exposed so the countertop doesn’t overlap or drain directly into the basin. However, most modern installations are undermounted so the countertop can overlap the sink slightly for easier cleanup, making the process very similar.

For your layout, I recommend using a 2-door apron sink cabinet and ordering the opening a bit wider than needed. A 36″ cabinet provides a 34.50″ opening, which fits a 33″ sink comfortably with extra tolerance. That’s exactly what this cabinet is designed for.

An 8″ opening height will work well. An 8.75″ opening would give you a 1.5″ tall exposed portion of the false front—matching the proportions on the left and right—but it would also require adding 3/4″ shims inside the cabinet. Both options are fine, but the 8.75″ opening may reduce the usable vertical space for your trash rollout. For that reason, I’d stick with the 8″ opening to maximize clearance above the rollout.

As for installing the trash rollout, the process is the same as mentioned previously—mount the pullout on-site inside whichever opening you prefer.

[Robin]

Thank you!

What about the slab door question? What does “paint grade” mean with slab door? And is it possible to just get the plywood itself sanded and finished? And do you have any photos of the pre-paint-or-veneer slab plywood door?
Should I make this a separate thread?

Thanks again! I think I’m finally honing in on an order

[ChadBarker]

Sure. A paint-grade slab plywood door is built using a 3/4″ plywood core with a maple veneer on the face, back, and all edges. You can order it as raw wood, where you’ll see the natural maple veneer, or you can order it primed or fully painted in any of our offered paint colors.

There is no option to order a slab door without veneer. Removing the veneer would make the plywood unstable and prone to warping, and it’s also not a stocked or readily available material. The veneer on both the face and back is what keeps the core flat and stable, resulting in a clean, durable cabinet door that will last for decades.

Here are a few photos showing what a slab plywood door made from paint-grade maple looks like. This particular maple door has a clearcoat, but it gives you an accurate idea of the veneer and construction used.

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[robin]

i’m sorry i’m still a bit confused as i try to fill my cart.

if the Slab door is plywood core with maple veneer, what do the two different paint grade options mean?
Paint grade alder /MDF vs paint grade maple/maple.
one is more expensive than the other, but I dont understand how “Frame=alder ;Panel = MDF” is even possible.
On the other hand, i dont want to choose the more expensive option if they are in fact the same thing.

Please advise the correct way to choose that option.

[ChadBarker]

For a slab plywood door, just choose the least-expensive paint-grade option (Alder/MDF). We actually use a maple veneer over a plywood core for both paint-grade options. Alder veneer doesn’t paint as well as maple and costs more, so we default to the maple veneer for all slab plywood paint-grade doors, even the base model.

Slab plywood is a bit of an odd one since there’s no center panel—just a single flat surface—so the panel material is irrelevant. Technically, we can paint any material you want (cherry, white oak, red oak, walnut, etc.), but most people stick to the paint-grade options because they’re inexpensive and provide a great surface for paint.

Side note for anyone listening in: painted white oak has a very cool look. The grain is heavy, so you can see the white oak texture subtly through the paint as light reflects off it. It’s a neat effect.

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